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Thu, 07 Sep 06 at 10:55:48


sprint ringtones «;sprint ringtones»
http://www.rtmark.com/f/get/trrcii/363/7.html, CA USA

Wed, 06 Sep 06 at 03:18:41

Opteka FL680AF-C for canon digital EOS Trigger voltage 4.64v

Ross Ferris «;rg.ferris@xtra.co.nz»
Tokoroa, New Zealand

Thu, 06 Apr 06 at 04:45:16

Do you think the philips flash 28 BCS will work on my canon EOS 10D? Do you think it will give an error?

Im looking forward to your reply

Greetings Henk

Henk «;ottehenk@hotmail.com»
ede, CA holland

Sat, 24 Dec 05 at 05:03:49

I use the Vivitar Auto Thyristor 2800 on my digital canon 20d. and it works just fine. But it is not attached to the hotshoe. I took it apart and build in a jack sleeve. So i can use it with the flash sleeve. I think you might be interested.
best regards
and a marry chrismas

Konstantin «;diluo@web.de»
Erfurt, th Germany

Thu, 22 Dec 05 at 13:52:11

Aico Auto Pro 38 circa 1990. Trigger voltage 202 Volts. Thanks for the information, was planning to use it on a Nikon D50, thanks to your site, I checked first! I love the 'Net!

David Bettie «;davidbettie@blueyonder.co.uk»
Wolverhampton, UK

Wed, 21 Dec 05 at 14:16:04

I measured my strobe. 1,6 volts on Chinon S-250 Zoom. I use that with Nikon D50.

Tommi Mikkonen «;tommi.mikkonen@pp1.inet.fi»

Sun, 18 Dec 05 at 12:25:30

Measured voltage at the connection points of the suntax 9000ETS was 3.5 volts DC and therefore suitable for the Canon EOS 10D, I had to switch the wiring because the positive was connected to the the side instead to the central pin, which gave an error at the display of the camera.
The suntax 9800A measured 68 Volts DC and the Achiever 115M was good for 64 volts DC.

lymar «;maurly@skynet.be»
antwerp, CA belgium

Sun, 18 Dec 05 at 05:46:47

Measured 6.2 Volts on my Soligor 30DA flash, using a digital multimeter.

Rafael Garcia «;rg_segura@ya.com»
Malaga, SPAIN

Wed, 14 Dec 05 at 05:46:03

Measured Metz 36C-2 trigger voltage: 7.4 Volts

Jack van der Windt «;j.vanderwindt@hetnet.nl»
Druten, Netherlands

Mon, 12 Dec 05 at 02:06:42

Just measured next two flash:
Chinon C990-Pro trigger voltage: 125V (huh)
Chinon GS-320 trigger voltage: 9V (may I use it with my Olympus 5050?)


FotoDoktor «;foto@rosko.hu»
Budapest, CA Hungary

Fri, 09 Dec 05 at 15:38:43

Measured 9.97 Volts on my Unomat BC 24 T flash, using a digital multimeter.

Nicola Morello
Pordenone, PN Italy

Thu, 08 Dec 05 at 16:09:16

Just measured the Sunpak B3600 AF (for Canon cameras), resulting in a trigger voltage of 7.4 volts.

It used to work fine on my old EOS600, but not on my EOS20D... the speedlite 580EX works better though :-)

Henrik Lander

Thu, 08 Dec 05 at 12:06:24

Hi - just measured voltage on a Jenaflex Zoom 3600 ( twin head ) flash unit - dedicated for TTL flash with Jenaflex AM-1 camera. I got a voltage of 1.7

Will try it on my Panasonic FZ30 when I build up courage...

Thanks for this site



Andrew Lewis «;a.lewis29457@ntlworld.com»
cardiff, UK

Sun, 04 Dec 05 at 20:34:11

I too called Vivitar and it was confirmed that all 285HV flashes, regardless of country of manufacture have trigger voltages around 9V. I have a Korean 285HV - measures 7.6V with fresh batteries.

Oceanside, CA USA

Sun, 04 Dec 05 at 07:35:18

The Strobe "Berotron 3000AF" has a Voltage of 4,8 V - 6 V. It depends on Batteries or Akkus you use.
4 X 1,5 V or 4 X 1,2 V.

Martin Havran
Braunschweig, NS GER

Fri, 02 Dec 05 at 03:01:06

Like its brother the Image CZ65, the CZ55 I have here shows 200V across its trigger terminals. Blast...

Jim May

Thu, 24 Nov 05 at 11:03:40

Vivitar 285HV (bought new in 2004) - 6V
Measured myself.

Yashica CS-220 Auto (not 221 Auto, another model) - 10.5V
Measured myself.

Hitacon 160B - 130~135V
Measured myself.

All using a multimeter.

Andy Choong «;ceo684@softhome.net»
Klang, SL Malaysia

Tue, 22 Nov 05 at 09:30:16


A friend of mine sold me his Old Vivitar 285,for use on my Fuji S700o. Following your instruction on how to measure, I found it to be 6 to 8 volts. Vivitar reports the older models, those made in japan have a trigger voltage of over 300. WHich is correct??

Steve Bradshaw «;sbradshaw@mountaincable.net»
Hamilton, ont Canada

Tue, 15 Nov 05 at 16:02:52


I checked the strobes I own.

Cullmann DC42 5.30 V
Metz 45 CT-1 (serial #137589) 357 V - ouch!!!
Thanks to your report I didn't try this one on my brand new EOS 20D!


Stefan Moss «;stefanchris@aol.com»

Thu, 10 Nov 05 at 14:55:31

BRAUN Ultrablitz 34M (dedicated system SCA 300) has triger voltage of 7.71 volts.

Works fine with Panasonic FZ30 camera.

David Atir «;davidatir@isdn.net.il»

Wed, 02 Nov 05 at 20:18:13

I asked the people at hensel about the Sync voltage of their Integra 500 strobes and this is the answer I got , think it might be of interest for other people.
Thank you and congratulations on your site hope it keeps growing.

Walter Iglesias.

Dear Mr. Iglesias,

thank you for your inquiry.

The Integra 500 has a sync voltage of approx. 18 Volt.

The new Integra Pro / Pro Plus 500 has a sync voltage of approx. 5 Volt.

Best Regards

Christian Lutz
Export Sales Manager
Hensel Studiotechnik GmbH & Co. KG
Robert-Bunsen-Str. 3
D-97076 Würzburg
Phone: ++49 (0) 931 / 27881-14
Fax: ++49 (0) 931 / 27881-50
E-Mail: christian.lutz@hensel.de
Internet: www.hensel.de
----- Original Message -----
From: Administrator
To: st@hensel.de ; th@hensel.de
Sent: Saturday, October 29, 2005 4:15 AM
Subject: Kundenanfrage Englisch wurde abgeschickt

Das Formular wurde ausgefüllt!

Folgende Angaben wurden dabei gemacht:

Dialogbox...: Dear Sir or Madan,
I need to know the sync voltage of my Integra 500 units , so that I know if it is safe for using them with the sync cord attached to the Sync socket of my Canon 20D camera.
Thank you in advance for your answer,
Walter Iglesias

Walter Iglesias

Mon, 31 Oct 05 at 14:42:46





Sat, 29 Oct 05 at 22:10:30


I tested a Hanimex X322 strobe:
About 195 V using ordinary digital multimeter with unknown input impedance...

Mario Scholz «;Mario.Scholz@gmx.net»
Berlin, Germany

Fri, 28 Oct 05 at 17:05:46


I tested a Tokura 4015M (old and cheap!) strobe.
Here are the results:
About 210 V using ordinary digital multimeter with unknown input impedance...

SD «;sdphoto@tele2.fr»
Bethune, FRANCE

Sat, 15 Oct 05 at 08:15:58


I tested a National PE-200 strobe; here are the results:

1. About 250 V using old-school, high class analog multimeter with 50 MOhm input resistance.
2. 36 V using cheap, ordinary digital multimeter (Sinometer M-830B) with unknown input resistance.

Regards, Slawek.

Slawomir Maciejewski «;slama77@gazeta.pl»
Warsaw, -- Poland

Wed, 12 Oct 05 at 14:58:24

I mesured about 34V on my strobe "Vivitar (auto ?) 2600" who doesn't works with my EOS (350D).

Knoodrake «;knoodrake@gmail.com»
Aix, 04 France

Fri, 07 Oct 05 at 14:01:24

Just tested a Sunpak 433D Read a constant 7.9v Tested with a Fluke Multimeter. (Alkaline batteries)

Andy C

Sun, 02 Oct 05 at 14:56:57

I have measured a Starblitz 3000 BT-TWIN to 43 volts.

Skipper Clement Schioett «;skipp@skipp.dk»
holbaek, DK Denmark

Sat, 01 Oct 05 at 05:31:35

SUNPAK 24DX and 36DX both 10v- 11v. Tested with many meters.

Stan Walker «;stanwalkerpens@btopenworld.com»
Haydock, UK

Tue, 27 Sep 05 at 16:14:07

Miranda 500CD trigger voltage measured at 2.75 using Fluke model 75 digital multimeter.

Peter Clare «;pmclare@makenda.co.uk»
Basingstoke, CA UK

Tue, 27 Sep 05 at 10:11:27

Helios 38 Auto - Trigger Voltage was 175VDC using a Digital Storage Multimeter

Derek Manning «;djmanning@ntlworld.com»
Letchworth Garden City, UK

Tue, 27 Sep 05 at 04:59:47

I have read of many bad reports on a safe sync product. So I decided too have a go and make my own. I have made three versions of this, but they all do the same job. Letting the camera only see 3 or 5 volts, no matter what the strobe trigger volts are. I then extended the idea too have a slave flash to fit on top of the camera giving a single flash for use with studio flash`s. No more preflash woes.

Stan Walker «;stanwalkerpens@btopenworld.com»
Haydock, UK

Mon, 26 Sep 05 at 10:02:14

I have an old Regula Variant 740-2 mc strobe unit and need a manual and sync cord. Any suggestions as to who might have them ? Any U.S. source?

jim sapione «;bird@kaballero.com»
merry point, va USA

Fri, 16 Sep 05 at 05:15:38

Cullmann DC42 - 5.78V - checked by myself

best regards

Marcin SKoczek «;skoku@plusnet.pl»
Warsaw, Poland

Thu, 15 Sep 05 at 20:42:27

Thanks for the trigger voltage list
I checked two of my small flashes on a DSE digital multimeter:
Starblitz 2800DFC - 3.0V
Starblitz 1000 Auto Macrolite (ring flash) - 3.7V

Geoff Mower

Wed, 14 Sep 05 at 23:29:27

I have a powershot pro 70 that is displaying a E05 error message on the top screen. Can anyone give me some insight as to the problem?

bigkahuna «;dstrange@telus.net»
ferndale, wA USA

Tue, 13 Sep 05 at 16:33:45

checked 2 flashes, with Fluke voltmeter:

Crest BC-30B : 172 Volt
Olympus Quick Auto 310 : 225 Volt

Both used on my Fuji Finepix 6900Z, no problem, but for how long?
I want to make something like this: http://www.chemie.unibas.ch/~holder/nikonflash/coolflash.html
as adapter on the shoe to save te shoe/camera

Roelof «;brink89@zonnet.nl»
Assen, Holland

Tue, 13 Sep 05 at 13:58:55

Thanks for the page on strobe voltages. I did my own test to add to the database.
Cobra D632: 4.7v

Micha Noordegraaf

Tue, 13 Sep 05 at 13:29:23

Would like repair info for Metz 202 and 402. I have older units and chargers do not seem to work. Any repair or testing info please!

Larry «;munro@surfside.net»

Thu, 08 Sep 05 at 04:03:29


have measured trigger voltage on the following flashes - might add to your excellent list:
Brand Model Voltage Comment
Canon 300TL 3,2V Dedicated Canon T90
Achiever 360LCD 4,5V Dedicated Canon FD bodys
Vivitar 285 7,8V Not dedicated - used it on both FD and EOS bodys OK
Soligor TIF 380 4,7V Dedicated Canon EOS
Starblitz 3600 DFC 4,35V Dedicated Canon EOS
Sunpak 5000 AF 3,2V Dedicated Canon EOS
Canon 430EZ 4,1V Dedicated Canon EOS
Braun 370BVC 20,9V Not dedicated - NOT SAFE
Quantaray QA 25 250,0V Not dedicated - NOT SAFE


Thomas Andersson «;thomas_a55@hotmail.com»

Mon, 05 Sep 05 at 09:51:28

I have tested this flash for use on a digital slr. It came out of a 'normal' voltage round 3.5V to 4V.
Flash: Philips 28 CB
Date: 05-09-2005


Lorenz Roelofs «;roelofs@pandora.be»

Tue, 23 Aug 05 at 21:51:31

I am going to set up a studio in my home in 6 months. After reading the article"What Canon Didn't tell you about Powershot Flash Photography", realized I had a problem in flash sync. between Canon Elan TTL and my new Canon G6 E-TTL. I may need three or four slave units if I light the white back drop. How do I connect my G6 hot shoe to my studio strobe and other non-digital flashes? I have 1.Briteck HS 1000 Professional studio flash with PC and slave trigger;2. Canon Elan Camera (prefer to use my G6 most of the time); 3.Canon 430 EZ flash; 4. Vivitar 730 AF C(Canon dedicated); 5. Vivitar 2500 auto flash w/PC & hot shoe (center post); 6. Vivitar 252 flash w/PC & hoe shoe. All these are non-digital. Digital I have my Canon G6 and Canon 420 EX E-TTL. I have one slave with a PC outlet and one just a hot shoe (center post).

Will the studio flash and the other 5 flashes be tripped by the pre-flash on the G6 built in flash, Canon 420 EX, or any wireless unit I might hook up to the G6? Can anyone help me?

Larry Bland

Larry Bland «;lbland@sofnet.com»
Neosho, MO USA

Sat, 20 Aug 05 at 14:03:44


Is there a way to make a norman 400b works with the canon EOS 350D.I have several adapters but none is working. Is there a possible compatibility between those two products ?
Norman 400B / Canon EOS 350D.

bertrand polivka «;bpolivka@hotmail.com»
paris, CA france

Sat, 20 Aug 05 at 11:14:41

G'Day All;
For quite a while now I have unsuccessfully been looking for a copy of a manual for my Electronic Flash. The model # is Braun Ultrablitz 38 M Logic and the manufacturer is Robert Bosch Gmbh. Hopefully there is someone out there who can help!!!
Cheers, Peter.

Peter «;gday@telus.net»
, BC Canada

Fri, 19 Aug 05 at 05:22:02

I have Canon PowerShor A200.

Looks like I have got the dreaded E25 error.

i.e. When I open the lens door, I get a motor noise. Sounds like the camera is trying to focus. Then the noise stops and E25 is displayed on the LCD.

I can access the memory via USB connection but cannot take pictures.

Does any one have a solution?



Mano Jay «;hellomano_99@yahoo.com»
Cwmbran, Wales UK

Sat, 13 Aug 05 at 12:48:21

hi ia have an alfon 787-af flash and I would like to know where I could find an ownwers manual?

Constantin «;constantinvpana@hotmail.com»

Tue, 02 Aug 05 at 21:09:59

After reading through the info about flash voltage, I checked the manual on my Nikon D70. The quote listed on this site is, verbatim, the wording in the D70 manual. The flash trigger can handle up to 250 volts.

In addition, I checked the voltage across the hot shoes of my two flash units. My Sunpak Auto 411 measured at 75 volts, and my Vivitar Auto 225 (not yet listed on this site) also measured at 75 volts.

Keep up the great work. This site has been a tremendous resource.

Rockwell «;schrockwell@gmail.com»

Thu, 28 Jul 05 at 17:30:35

Mr. Kevin Bjorke

Looking for information about to use a flash Metz 32CT-3 in my Olympus C-7070 I find your web site that alert me of the dangerous voltage of old strobes. (First at all , thank you for this.)
Well, I contact Metz in Germany and they say me "flash units of type Metz 32 CT-3 are already loaded with a
so called low voltage trigger circuit according the international standard called ISO10330 1992-11 allowing trigger voltages from 3.5 to 24 volts. A 32 CT-3 provided only 21V (measured unloaded) to the camera which should be suitable for all digital cameras as a Oly C7070 as well."
I contact Olympus but they never contact me.

In your site I read this "Marco Fortin-Metzgen checked with Olympus Europe on his C4040 — that digicam has a trigger voltage of 10V, so Olympus too recommends strobe triggering in the 3V to 6V range".
So, ¿Who is right? and ¿what is "Iffy" in your voltage table? -

Obviously, I' don't want to damage my camera!!
If you can help me I be very grateful.

Roberto Calviño

Roberto Calviño «;rcalvino@adinet.com.uy»
Montevideo, Uruguay

Wed, 27 Jul 05 at 10:05:56

From http://www.metz.de/en/photo_electronics/faq/19/148/show.html

Metz mecablitz 45-CT 1 units featuring a model number that is smaller than 534 000 are fitted with a so-called high-voltage ignition circuit. These flash units must not be directly connected to modern cameras as this could even damage the camera!

All other flash units of the Metz mecablitz 45 CT and 45 CL series feature a low-voltage ignition circuit in keeping with the current standard.

Claudio Pagnani «;cpagnani@libero.it»
Ravenna, . ITALY

Thu, 21 Jul 05 at 15:25:49

I just bought a pair of Norman 400B battery-powered flash units. Neither of them would fire using my Pocket Wizard radio triggers, nor would they fire with any optical slave in my studio. They fired just fine hooked directly to an EOS-1 film camera. (I'm not stupid enough to hook this thing directly to a digital camera for testing.)

When I called Norman tech support, they told me that they had lowered the trigger voltage on the 400B to 5 volts, because they were getting complaints that the strobes were frying shutters on new digital cameras. So now the strobes won't 'see' the radio or optical slaves. I had to pay shipping for my brand new units back to Norman so they could raise the trigger voltage to 12 v.

This is idiotic. Nowhere does Norman say they have done this -- B+H still sells the Wein optical slave on the Norman 400B page. I wonder really how many of their customers still use these packs on a flash bracket for 400w/s wedding photography? I suspect that the vast majority of photographers who buy Norman are using these as location lighting systems, using radio and optical slaves.

The solution for Norman is to put a decal on the unit advising photographers to use a Wein Safe Sync for direct camera connection to the pack. That's what I have to do for every other big flash unit, anyway, if I'm not using the Pocket Wizards.


Ken Bennett

ken bennett «;bennettk at wfu dot edu»

Wed, 20 Jul 05 at 17:54:45

When i tried measuring the trigger voltage of my Vivitar 285HV, the flash fires. No voltage reading, the flash just fires. I'm sure the meter works fine. What could i be doing wrong?

Ray «;ryu_quirkyalone@yahoo.com»
Lauderdale, FL USA

Wed, 20 Jul 05 at 17:54:26

When i tried measuring the trigger voltage of my Vivitar 285HV, the flash fires. No voltage reading, the flash just fires. I'm sure the meter works fine. What could i be doing wrong?

Lauderdale, FL USA

Mon, 11 Jul 05 at 10:21:11

I checked the trigger voltage on my Sunpak 555.
It metered at 4.8v


Fri, 01 Jul 05 at 03:18:37

Can anyone inform me whether the Minolta Flash 2000xi is compatible with the Canon 350D?

C. Theodosiou «;ecmct@intekom.co.za»
Port Elizabeth, South Africa

Tue, 28 Jun 05 at 01:29:33

E25 error... damn i am also stuck with it. it is also powershot canon.

I've read this advise on the web and will try it this afternoon,

"tap the padded usb cover part on a desk",

even though it do sound a bit 'caveman way' of solving a problem ...
however I am out of patience.

It do sound like it is some sort of problem with focussing, because the camera work when the lens is closed but as soon as you open the lens it make this awfull noise & display the dreaded E25

eden voges «;ett1@hotmail.com»

Sat, 25 Jun 05 at 06:04:42

Trigger voltages checked:-

Sunpak SP40 = 47v

Srarblitz 200M = 259v !!Beware!!

Miranda 700 CD = -7.98v

Incablitz 328AZ is a recommended alternative flash for Panasonic FZ20,
Note some say Incablitz 280NZ is fine. I have used it OK, but with a reported firing voltage of 78v, I will not continue.

Great site, info otherwise difficult to obtain.



Ian Flinders

Ian Flinders «;flinders@petrie.starway.net.au»
Brisbane, Qld Australia

Fri, 17 Jun 05 at 07:50:59

I just measured the trigger voltage of my 20 years old National PE-388SW flash unit and it resulted in 8.34 VDC.

Im using this flash with the Olympus C-8080 in manual mode and it works quite fine.



Rudy «;tds-doc@gmx.net»

Mon, 13 Jun 05 at 07:59:26

I've tested a Nissin 35AFPX (in my case Pentax-dedicated TTL) which had a result of 8.6V

Hope this can help

Marco Introini

Mon, 13 Jun 05 at 02:01:37

Minsik says,

My Sunpak Autozoom 4000 hammerhead flash could not be used with the canon G2 (would have looked spectacular!), but after reading the information below i was willing to give it a new chance with the Rebel XT. It really does works great with the digital rebel xt.

Just take a multimeter and measure the open cct trigger connector, if less than 250v @ fully charged with a new battery set, (after charging several minutes) then you are ok.
I use my sunpak autozoom 4000 on automode, it has a hotshoe sensor, and so i set the rebel xt to manual mode 1/200th sec and f stop as set on the flash sensor. I can dial different apertures on the sensor and just set the manual to that setting. Flash now has lots of power and seems ok even at 18mm wide. Exposure seems spot on too.

Chuck Westfall, Director/Media & Customer Relationship, Canon USA, advises as follows regarding the flash sync circuit of the EOS Digital Rebel XT (EOS 350D):

The EOS Digital Rebel XT uses a modified version of the EOS 20D's shutter unit. Consequently, acceptable trigger circuit voltage for both cameras is the same, i.e., 250 volts. Except for the original Digital Rebel, all current EOS digital SLRs (i.e., EOS-1Ds Mark II, EOS-1D Mark II, EOS 20D and EOS Digital Rebel XT) generate their X-sync signals electronically rather than mechanically. This is why they have higher acceptable trigger circuit voltage ratings than earlier models like the D30, D60, 10D and original Digital Rebel. These older models cannot be modified to achieve a higher trigger circuit voltage rating, since such a modification would require a different shutter mechanism as well as a complete redesign of the supporting circuitry.

Best regards,

----- unsnip------------------------------------------------

Minsik «;minsik@4u.net»
Adelaide, SA australia

Tue, 07 Jun 05 at 14:37:31

I've owned a Minolta Maxuum 7000 camera for years and recently had to change the internal battery. SInce changing the battery my camera will not turn on and the LCD display does not appear to be working. Does anyone know if there is reset on this camera or any way to get it working again.

I hate to loose it, I have loads of accessaries for it. Please email me at jb53@att.net if you have a solution. Much appreciated.

Jim Burleson «;jb53@att.net»
Greenville, PA USA

Sat, 04 Jun 05 at 07:45:41

RE: strobe trigger voltages & digicams.
I checked with Fujifikm tech support & confirmed that the Fuji Finepix S7000 has a voltage limit at the hot shoe of 4.0 DCV. I've started using the Wein voltage limiter without any problems. Hope this is helpfull.

Chaz Fenn «;bs92951@netscape.net»
Williamsport, MD USA

Sat, 21 May 05 at 16:52:51

I asked Canon Customer Support if I could use my Speedlite 188A with my EOS Digital Rebel and received this reply:
"We do not recommend nor do we support the use of the A series Speedlite
flashes with the EOS Digital SLR cameras. We guarantee compatibility
with EX series flashes. Enjoy!

Thank you for choosing Canon.


Technical Support Representative

Richard Gill «;dick_gill7@hotmail.com»
Bloomington, IL USA

Sat, 21 May 05 at 16:27:38

Sunpak 422-D with STD-1D module = 11.85v
Sunpak auto 30 DX with NE-1D module = 10.92v to center contact
and 4.40v to dedicated contact
Sunpak auto 383 Super = 6.95v

These are all over 20 years old.

Ed Pawlowicz

Sat, 21 May 05 at 09:51:39

I reported a while ago that the Sunpak autozoom 4000 hammer head flash triggering at 200v. Yes thats still right, but now i have a Canon Rebel xt and have verified that the electronic shutter in that is ok up to 250v. So the Sunpack lives again! Yes it works 100% and a new set of rechargables and its usefull again.
Actually i didnt want to buy c cells so got an old Sony SX ENG camera battery that was on its last legs and split that apart. Inside are 10 c (sort of, right ehight @ 50mm but that the diameter is a little smaller instead of 26mm its only 22mm. anyway these "old cells have lots of grunt and have saved me the expense of new cells.

Check you local tv station foe some of these old packs perhaps.


Minsik «;minsikau@gmail.com»
Adelaide, SA australia

Mon, 16 May 05 at 17:33:56


I just found an older strobe:


I tested it with a Nikon D70, but I forget to remember the voltage problem. *eek*
This Strobe has a voltage of:

240V (+ at middle pin)

So it shouldn't be used with modern cameras. In fact, it didn't kill my D70 *huh*

Dani «;-»
Essen, NRW Germany

Thu, 05 May 05 at 13:01:23

I measured the Sunpak Auto 301. The trigger voltage reached 50 volts after one minutes (when the ready light switches on, I measured 20 volts, but it increased every second up to 50 volts)

Pieter Kestelyn «;kestelyn_pieter@hotmail.com»
VL Belgium

Sat, 23 Apr 05 at 11:36:41

I have a Sunpak that has had very little use. It is several years old but in nearly new condition. I just tried to fire it up and it does nothing. Any suggestions?

Moon Eagle «;mpoppers@bellsouth.net»
Asheville, NC USA

Fri, 22 Apr 05 at 05:06:31

Hensel IR Flash Transmitter Economy (no. 396)
3-5V according to Hensel Export Sales Manager

Aapo Laitinen «;aapol@mbnet.fi»

Fri, 15 Apr 05 at 14:18:47

I have three strobes
1 Soligor MK-17A, triggers 71.0V - centre positiv
2 Pentax AF201SA, triggers 6.2V - centre Positiv

Piotr Sosnowski «;inserwis.sc<antispam>@neostrada.pl»
Szczecin, CA Poland

Fri, 15 Apr 05 at 02:57:26

I have a vivitar 728 auto focus flashgun which will no longer work - I put in new batteries - hooked it up to my canon eos sync cord and now it won't work (my camera is a canon rebel 2000-not digital) I need help!!! How do I know if it is the bulb - I have had the flash for about 5 months now and have only used the flashgun about 3 times - when i bought it it was supposedly compatible w/the camera. I am an amatuer and have no idea what to do but I need my flash for an assignment tomorrow so any help soon would be great!!! thanks

nicki p «;nicjoeaud@yahoo.com»

Does it work when you trigger it with the test button?

If not, make sure you have the batteries oriented correctly (the holder is usually marked for which way they go) -- if this is OK, clean the contacts.

If that doesn't work, try another set of batteries.


Fri, 15 Apr 05 at 02:48:55

I have three strobes, all fairly old.

Miranda 930TCD -- triggers at 9.2V -- centre positive.

Sunpak 2800BZ -- triggers at 6.8V -- centre positive.

Vivitar 2800D -- triggers at 8.9V -- centre positive. (note the "D" is important -- Vivitar 2800 models without the "D" cithout the "D" can be high voltage -- 130V +!)

All three work fine from Panasonic Lumix FZ20 digital and Nikon F401 SLR.

Charles «;cknox@netspace.net.au»
Melbourne, VIC Australia

Thu, 14 Apr 05 at 05:15:12

About strobe voltage for National PE-2850 flash - I've read one advertise where one guy sold this flash and specified the strobe voltage also. His value was probably given from flash manual and he stated it to be as 36 Volts.
See mentioned adds on this url:


Best regards,

erh «;erh@pobox.sk»
Slovakia, Europe

Sun, 10 Apr 05 at 15:52:45

Got a Sunpak auto 322 D - Reads only 2Volts!!! works even on my c-5050. Great old cheap thing :)

XZ «;x.photography@gmail.com»
Montreal, QC Canada

Wed, 06 Apr 05 at 06:22:29


Pentax (germany) informed, that the maximum-voltage for DSLR's *istD + *istDS is 30 Volt
Positive in the middle.


you find links on flash-voltage-regulator and servo-flash to build it yourself for extremely little money!

alfred hamm «;alfred.hamm@rs-telecom.de»
horhausen, germany

Tue, 05 Apr 05 at 07:54:34

Looking through the posts for flash voltages I have to ask is the synch voltage generated by the flash and the camera is just acting as a switch closing the contacts and firing the flash. Why I ask is I was trying to test a wireless flash trigger and if a multimeter is placed over the output plug a cicuit should be made when the test botton is pressed. I do not seem to be able to measure any such circuit making could this be that the circuit closure is too brief to measure or am I down the wrong path.

I was trying to test this to operate another circuit remotely but have so far failed to get any output. The trigger definatly is workig as it fires the studio falsh lights no problem.

KWC «;ken@elvet.plus.com»
Durham, UK

Mon, 04 Apr 05 at 11:05:47

My Sunpak Auto 36DX flash has an 1.85V output voltage, measured with a cheap digital multimeter (M830B).

Bogdan Postelnicu

Sat, 02 Apr 05 at 14:07:35

I can confirm that the flash
"National PE-3057" have a stobe at 10.9 V

Niels Chr. Rød «;ncr@db9.dk»
Copenhagen, kbh DK

Fri, 01 Apr 05 at 19:59:59

Does anyone have any information on the Sunpak FP-38? Voltage output, comments? Thanks, Bud

Buddy Pace «;Zane@zxs.com»
Richmond, CAVA USA

Tue, 29 Mar 05 at 12:40:39


I've recently bought a digital multimeter. I set the FUNCTION switch to DCV "200" position and then connected the test leads to the "positive" and "negative" of the hotshoe. The reading was "12.0". So does it mean that the trigger voltage of my old strobe (National PE-357S) is 12V?

C W Sze
Hong Kong, China

Mon, 28 Mar 05 at 19:53:32

Photo Essays by Herman Krieger

Herman Krieger «;hkrieger@efn.org»
Eugene, OR USA

Sat, 26 Mar 05 at 12:32:39

Could anyone explain how to set the multimeter?

C W Sze «;scw8888@hotmail.com»
Hong Kong, China

Fri, 25 Mar 05 at 17:19:32

I have a vivitar 728 auto focus flashgun which will no longer work - I put in new batteries - hooked it up to my canon eos sync cord and now it won't work (my camera is a canon rebel 2000-not digital) I need help!!! How do I know if it is the bulb - I have had the flash for about 5 months now and have only used the flashgun about 3 times - when i bought it it was supposedly compatible w/the camera. I am an amatuer and have no idea what to do but I need my flash for an assignment tomorrow so any help soon would be great!!! thanks

nicki p «;nicjoeaud@yahoo.com»
houma, la USA

Thu, 24 Mar 05 at 14:43:41

Vivitar 285 recently aquired for FZ 10 Checked voltage at hot shoe contacts with flash powered up 6.2 volts consistantly. Got it used and first owner marked manual as 1983 purchase.

John Krayetski «;fastoys@3web.net»
Tottenham, ONT Canada

Thu, 17 Mar 05 at 00:19:47

Incablitz 280AZ 73 volts
Boots 1600 (externally identical to old sunpack 1600a) 43 volts

Mike Sprange «;msprange@bigbluenet.au»

Wed, 16 Mar 05 at 22:47:45

Hi again,

Responce from Olympus about the max trigger voltage for the C-8080 is 5V :-(
I will search for a remote flash or a trigger circuitry to use my current Sunpak auto124 as a remote one.

Melbourne, VIC Australia

Tue, 15 Mar 05 at 00:47:29

Hi all,

I took about 50 flash photos with a Sunpak auto124 on my Olympus C-8080...
Then I read that it is not a good idea :-)
Well it survived so far. But I will stop and wait until I have full confidence that I am not shortening the live of my camera before I use it again. I measure 180Vdc from my Sunpak auto124 but that is with a 2/3 used set of rechargeable.

I have sent a question to Olympus Australia about the max tolerated trigger voltage for the C-8080.
I will post the response as soon as I have one.


Melbourne, VIC Australia

Sun, 13 Mar 05 at 05:44:09

Here are my measurements. They were obtained by using a digital
multimeter to measure the voltage between the strobe's two
primary contacts (i.e. center pin and rail) on fully charged
units. I've also added the year I bought the strobe (all
bought new, so it is probably near to year it was manufactured):

Mfgr. Model Year Voltage
Prinz Jupiter 2000 (1975): 71 V
Vivitar 283 (1975): 107 V
Nikon SB-28 (2000): 3.1 V

Gisle Hannemyr «;gisle@hannemyr.no»
Oslo, Norway

Fri, 11 Mar 05 at 03:50:45

Just tested my Achiever 115A/S Auto and slave flash voltage!
Test procedure:
1. I used a digital multimeter to test this flash. Both Positive and Negative probe is clamped to the trigger pin.
2. The voltage is recorded down before I press the trigger the test button on the flash.
3. Then the test trigger is activated and the voltage on the multimeter is recorded.
4. Another test is after I trigger the test button, wait a while for the voltage reading to a saturate value.
Here's my result:
1. 3.54V - Before trigger the test button on the flash
2. 3.82V - reading right after the test button is triggered.
3. 3.53V, 3.52V, 3.54V, 3.54V, 3.51V - saturated reading of the flash after the test button is triggered! (I tested for 5 times!
4. Average value of the trigger voltage: 3.52V
5. The maximum voltage recorded after the test button is triggered: 3.91V

Hope this help


Chee Wooi «;gehcheewooi81@yahoo.com»
Kuala Lumpur, SELANGOR Malaysia

Wed, 09 Mar 05 at 15:24:17

I have measured the trigger voltage on 2 of my flashguns, both by using a digital meter and got the following results:

Starblitz Pro 5000 GTZ Twin ..... 11 Volts

Starblitz 1000 Auto Macro lite ..... 6.75 Volts.

Please note that the second one is on the list as 2.9 Volts but my reading is much higher.

Hope this helps someone.



Ramon «;rmilton@lineone.net»
London, uk

Tue, 08 Mar 05 at 17:59:24

In late October 2003 I posted info about my old Sunpak strobe but didn't realize until just now that I made a typo in the model number! Someone from Finland wrote to me to ask if I really meant "Sunpak Auto 26SR", not "Sunpak Auto 266SR". I checked my strobe & he's correct, it's a 26SR NOT A 266SR.

This is my old message with the INCORRECT MODEL NAME 266SR:
>I've got an old Sunpak model "auto266SR". It peaks at 5.7v measured
>with a good digital multimeter, with fresh NiMH batteries. I see it
>cycle down to 0v then back up to 5.7v in a couple of seconds when I
>test-fire it, so I'm pretty darned sure I'm measuring the voltage
>correctly. You can add it to the list if you'd like.<br>

This really should be the "Auto 26SR" NOT THE "Auto 266SR". Sorry 'bout that.

Zapped «;d3zapped@yahoo.com»
Austin, TX USA

Mon, 07 Mar 05 at 06:05:37

Sunpak 2000 BZ (Thyristor -- centre pin positive) measures 6.8V trigger voltage with NiMH batteries.

Works OK on a Panasonic FZ20 & has no extra pins to worry about.

Has only 2 power settings and controls are tedious to move, but hey, what can you expect for $A2.70...

Charles «;cknox@netspace.au»
Melbourne, Vic Aust.

Fri, 04 Mar 05 at 08:34:38

I received this answer from Metz Support about Mecablitz 32ct7 at Canon EOS 300D:

Sehr geehrter Hr. Salzer,
im Gegesatz zum 45 CT-1 hat der 32 CT-7, der wesentlich später auf den Markt kam zu einem Zeitpunt wo sich die immer noch gültige Norm ISO10330 1992-11 bereits durchgesetzt hatte, generell einem Niedervolt-Zündkreis, bei dem eine Beschädigung der Kamera ausgeschlossen ist. Die Zündspannung des 32 CT-7 beträgt 10V und ist daher auch für die 300D verträglich.

Mit freundlichen Grüßen

Metz Werke GmbH & Co KG
Technischer Kundendienst

The important words are:

10V Trigger Voltage


Hans Peter Salzer «;hpsh@gmx.de»
Frankfurt, Germany

Thu, 03 Mar 05 at 11:39:16

I got an old National PE-357S but I'm not sure what the voltage is. However, I've found 2 similar models in The Strobe List:

PE-287S Your Call 8.3V measured by Kjetil Kling Ortveit

PE-387S Your Call 7.8V, per Alain Gleyzes

Could any one tell me whether mine is also around 8V?

Thanks in advance for your help.

C W Sze «;scw8888@hotmail.com»
HKSAR, China

Tue, 01 Mar 05 at 19:10:58

I have three flashes that I have checked the trigger voltage on with a digital voltmeter.
1.) Vivitar 283~serial No. K176509
108.6 volts
2.) Canon 277T
3.68 volts
3.) Sunpak Auto Zoom 1000 Canon Dedicated~serial No. 84004734
3.82 volts

I have used both the Canon and Sunpak flashes on my Canon 20D in manual mode. The Canon does a great job. I can not get as good results with the Sunpak, but I do not have a manual for it so I am not sure how to set it up.

I will not use the Vivitar on my Canon 20D with out getting a Wein Safe-Sync.

Hope this helps someone.

Michael E. Crowe «;mec99@kih.net»
Hustonville, Ky USA

Sun, 27 Feb 05 at 09:56:08

Hello, I own a Minolta X700 that works fine. I just purchased a Vivitar zoom thyristor 5200 flash unit for the camera. I saw the same flash on Ebay being sold with an X700 and figured they would work well together. When I attach the flash to the camera, all I get as a meter reading from the camera is a "flashing" reading of "60" for my shutter speed. No matter what I have the flash set to (Auto, M/TTL, 1/2, 1/4, 1/16)ISO, F-stop or shutter speed for either flash or camera, I still get the same reading from my camera. Did I buy the wrong flash? Do I need a synch chord? Or COULD something be wrong with the camera? I also tried a Sakar 27M flash unit which had no effect at all with the reading, with or without a synch chord.
Can someone please tell me what I'm doing wrong!

Terrence Jackson «;TJackson6925@Hotmail.com»
West New York, NJ USA

Fri, 25 Feb 05 at 20:21:11

the e25 or error 25 problem that i had was the focus motor...hope this helps

ted «;tedc001@hotmail.com»

Fri, 25 Feb 05 at 16:28:00

I measured my old Practica BC2400 flash (purchased around 1989 or 1990) at 7.5V.
It has a second pin for some proprietary function, but it looks to be in a position that won't touch any of the proprietary pins on the G-series' hotshoe once on the camera.

London, UK

Wed, 23 Feb 05 at 20:18:30

Sorry, left this out of previous post - (Wed, 23 Feb 05 at 20:08:17)

Is there, anywhere, an explanation of why there is such a grab-bag
of trigger voltages for these units?

E.D. Wright «;ewright95503@cox.net»
Eureka, CA USA

Wed, 23 Feb 05 at 20:08:17

I just bought a new digital camera (Panasonic DMC-FZ20) and had intentions of using an old strobe flash that I've had for years on it until I discovered this great flap about strobe flash trigger voltages and digital cameras. To Panasonic's credit, the camera manual for the FZ20 states that "external flash units used (other than Panasonic's) should be designed for use on a digital camera and have a trigger voltage compliant with ISO 10330 (less than 24 volts)." But, it also says, "Some commercial flashes have synchro terminals with high-voltage or reversed polarity and use of such flashes may cause a malfunction or the camera may not operate normally." From what I've seen on the internet, this should probably be a much stronger warning.

Anyhow, here is my "for what it's worth" entry to this forum.

The old strobe mentioned above is a Vivitar 285 (made in Japan - SN 6834101) purchased in August 1981 at a U.S. Air Force exchange in England. It's been years since the last time it was used. But it still appears to be operational, that is, it charges up and recharges in the stated time interval and fires OK, off the camera.... but I haven't actually tried it taking photos. Now, how about this... with a fresh set of alkaline batteries installed, and after "re-forming" the capacitor in accordance with the manual, I measured the trigger voltage at least a half dozen times, on both the strobe shoe as well as the contacts of a PC cord. I consistently read 3.5, repeat, 3.5 volts; Not what I expected. Since this is the lowest reading I've seen reported anywhere for this model and have no way of knowing whether it's valid or not, I'm speculating that the unit may be defective owing to long periods of inactivity. Even though it's still like new (never really got a lot of use) and appears to be operational, albeit the low trigger voltage, I'm not willing to risk damaging a brand new $500 camera.

E.D. Wright «;ewright95503@cox.net»
Eureka, CA USA

Wed, 23 Feb 05 at 11:41:35

Hi and thanks for the great list! Just measured my old Vivitar 285 (made in Japan) with a digital multimeter and I get between 5.9v and 6.0 volts, so seems safe for digital Canon.

Henry Clarke «;waltken@hotmail.com»
Barcelona, Spain

Wed, 23 Feb 05 at 06:03:47

I just checked the voltage from my Sunpak 544 and it varies from 5.48 to 7.52 volts.
Used a digital voltmeter and had our companies electrician verify the results.
looks like I'm gonna have to get a cable to reduce the voltage.

Bill Thelen «;wthelen@cox.net»
Cleveland, OH USA

Tue, 22 Feb 05 at 11:31:27

I just bought a G5. Only after I bought it, I found that it requires E-TTL flash - those ex series flashes.

My question is, can I non ex flashes, such as canon's 540ez or Sunpak's PZ-5000 I know that I cannot use the E-TTL. What I am interested is will those flash perform the following :

1. Will power-zooming still functioning?
2. Will the flash emit focus-assist beam in the dark?

If you have tried them on your G3 or G5. Please let me know. Thanks.


Howard «;sampling@hotmail.com»
philadelphia, pa USA

Mon, 21 Feb 05 at 06:57:35





Wed, 16 Feb 05 at 07:31:45


My camera is a contax G2.
I already work with the TLA 280, but i'm not satisfied.
I want to work with a Philips 38CT flash.
Has anyone measured the volts?

Cees Tol «;c.tuijp.tol@quicknet.nl»
Volendam, Holland

Thu, 03 Feb 05 at 01:16:40

hello , thanks for the voltages on old strobes

here are two from me

pe-247s ca. 1985 256 volts, plus on mid

revue c35s unknown year 10 volt , plus on mid

peter «;peter-f@nospam.de»
berlin, de ger

Mon, 31 Jan 05 at 14:06:48

contacted vivitar today about the vivitat 2800d flash. They stated that the d models are a low voltage model. And that the specific voltage of the 2800d flash was 5 volts. hope this helps

jon hill «;samurai_106@yahoo.com»
wynne, ar USA

Mon, 31 Jan 05 at 09:54:48

I have a Ricoh Xr 300 P Speedlight strobe (flash) that I have had for a number of years. I was hesitant to use it with the Digital Rebel fearing the high-voltage issue. Well, yesterday I measured the voltage with two different Digital Voltmeters (one is Wavetek, other was a cheap brand) and measured the same voltage: 4.55 VDC. I am an electrical engineer - you can be sure that I measured correctly.
With this information I have begun to use with the 300d - and so far the results are very good!

John Gillespie «;john.gillespie@bms.com»
Newburgh, IN USA

Sun, 30 Jan 05 at 10:23:06


Very good site with lots of useful information. Thanks for putting this together. Here's my contribution:

Novatron 240 Pack - 7.5 volts

Nissin 4200GW - 4 volts

Tom Pierce

Thomas Pierce «;tlpierce@mindspring.com»
Marietta, ga USA

Sat, 29 Jan 05 at 09:27:29

I'm using my old Metz 45CT1 (serialnr:631902,purchasedate: 1989, batterypack with 6 AA-cells) with my Canon Didital Rebel(300D). No problems until I reached your site where a tigger voltage of >200 (even 600) is mentioned. I measured mine with a digital meter and the highest amount measured was only 7,6 volts. So I don't understand the differences with the measurements on your site.

Nijhof Willem «;wjnijhof@wanadoo.nl»
den Haag, netherlands

Thu, 27 Jan 05 at 17:12:22


did anyone measure "pentax af-500ftz"?

bobo550 «;bobo550@centrum.cz»

Wed, 26 Jan 05 at 00:39:28

Thanks for the information about measuring the trigger voltage. I've used a digital multimeter and measured my Nissin AFZ400C and it is 5.7V. Yay!!

TC «;tc4848@yahoo.com.sg»
na Singapore

Mon, 24 Jan 05 at 15:58:14

I would like to share my discovery about voltage in pc contact in a flash unit
Starblitz Shurelite 2600gms (made in Japan) . Measured with an analogue voltmeter (impedance 20000ohm per V) in the pc contact, it shows only two volts, and the polarity is positive in the outer shield
of the contact and negative in the centered pin.
i hope it serves to somebody


jose manuel roig
villaba, Madrid

jose manuel roig «;alfascorpii7@hotmail.com»
villalba, spain

Sun, 23 Jan 05 at 13:40:00

I have an old Photogenic AA01 and recently measured the trigger voltage at 5.5 V

Guy Tumblin «;guyajr@bellsouth.net»
clinton, SC USA

Thu, 20 Jan 05 at 10:18:16

got a message from sunpak about the trigger voltage on the 544 handle mount.

Dear Mike,
It is 6 volts dc. Most (current production) Sunpak flashes are 6, the exception is the 120J series at 12 volts dc. Old Sunpak flashes, more than 20 years ago, would be about 190 volts dc.

Thank you,

Marc H. Heller
Marketing Product Manager
ToCAD America, Inc.

Mike gerstner «;gepetto@gwi.net»

Wed, 19 Jan 05 at 21:27:01

I looked up the specs for the Mecablitz 60 CT-1/2 in the Operating Instructions manual. The triggering voltage is 30 volts.

Eleas Petru «;epetru@xnet.com»

Sun, 16 Jan 05 at 15:44:08

I just purchased a new Vivitar 2800. I inserted new batteries and measured the voltage between the trigger pin and side contact. 137 V.

Kent Molter

Kent Molter «;kmolter@earthlink.net»
Cedarburg, WI USA

Sat, 15 Jan 05 at 09:56:37


Just measured the Topca 330 COS (made for Canon EOS SLR). Voltage between center pin and side contact fluctuated between 5.55 and 5.58 V. Fired it several times and got very consistent readings. Gonna try it with my Ricoh Caplio GX for fun.


Johan «;j.modig[a]home.se»
Uppsala, Sweden

Wed, 12 Jan 05 at 00:30:34

Just tested my tiny & old Starblitz 24A with a multimeter. Comes out to 5.2 volts.

Ben S
Milwaukee, WI USA

Sun, 09 Jan 05 at 08:50:37


I just measured the Voltage of my "Sunpack Auto24" Flash and got about 210V wit Batteries and about 180V with the AC-Adaptor.


Peter Rohrer

Fri, 07 Jan 05 at 01:39:09

Hi, just to follow up on the post below regarding the Sunpak 444D, I did modify the strobe circuit per the excellent instructions at http://repairfaq.cis.upenn.edu/Misc/strbfaq.htm#strboazp (with some minor modifications), and I am happy to report that for a grand total expense of $1.11, I now have a 444D that puts out 2 Volts at the hot shoe and fires well from my Digital Rebel. I would highly recommend the modification to anyone that cares to do it.

Kal Krishnan
Fremont, CA USA

Thu, 06 Jan 05 at 18:48:52

My Grandfather brought me a Vivitar 3900 Handle Mount Flash. It seems to work just fine,
but I would like to know more about this unit, when did it come onto the market, history,
pros/cons ect.
Thanks Alot.

Larry «;nikonlarry@hotmail.com»
Carlsbad, NM USA

Wed, 05 Jan 05 at 12:36:47

Hi, I measured with a digital voltmeter, the strobe sync voltage on my Sunkpak 444D which I had bought over a decade ago for my Ricoh SLR.

I got 10.8 volts to the center pin, and 6.2 volts to the second pin. I presume the second pin served some "dedicated" function for the Ricoh, but not sure what. You may include that in the excellent summary page.

I guess this puts it squarely in the "my call" category for use on my Digital Rebel. I am loathe to buy the Wien adapter, since it is about $50, and for a bit more than that I can buy a *dedicated* flash in the used market. Has anyone in this board used flashes with around 11 Volts on a Rebel or 300D camera? Any practical experiences to share?

Kal Krishnan «;kkrishnan@bravolabs.com»

Tue, 04 Jan 05 at 13:02:45

Superb site, thank you so much, I've learnt a lot in the past couple of hours!
A number of off-site links are 404'ing, I know that's not your fault, but
it would be so nice if the new locations could be found in at least some



Mon, 03 Jan 05 at 17:36:14

With reference to using an external flash on the Canon Powershot G5 - I have devised another method to use my old and powerfull BRAUN 370 BVC flash.

1) I have modified the foot of a flash adapter by shortening one side, so it does not activate the little switch on the camera, the camera now does not know that an external flash unit is connected.

2) I set the internal flash of the camera to reduced power, say by two 2 stops. I do not bother about the stop setting of the lens. I use P-mode.

3) I set the external flash to automatic, it will sense the light reflected by the scene and adapt its power accordingly.

4) I do trials and change the settings untill I have the desired result.

5) Especially in portrait photography I like to have sparkling reflections in the eyes of the model, caused by the internal flash of the camera; while the external flash bounces of the ceiling or of a white wall for general lighting of the scene.

Being able to use the digital camera for evaluation of the light distribution and as exposure meter is a real blessing.

Manfred Gammel «;manfred-gammel@hetnet.nl»
Nuenen, NB Netherlands

Mon, 03 Jan 05 at 17:32:03

Jeanpaul Brodier's <jeanpaul.brodier@free.fr> Camera Protection circuit shown in Sam's Strobe FAQ (the TRIAC version) works well for me!

I use a Canon Powershot G5 and an old BRAUN 370 BVC flash (20V trigger

Many thanks and Happy New Year

Manfred Gammel «;manfred-gammel@hetnet.nl»
Nuenen, NB Netherlands

Sat, 01 Jan 05 at 11:27:52

Just measured a Vivitar 352 Auto Thyristor Flash with my Radio Shack Multitester (20,000 Ohms per volt) It spiked to about 190 volts, then dropped down to about 150 volts. So it's a definite No-No for digital cameras. Sorry I can't be any more precise, but the multimeter is analog. Mike

Mike Michaelski «;mmichaelski@sc.rr.com»
Lexington, SC USA

Fri, 31 Dec 04 at 12:22:34

I just received my Promaster FTD 5200 and tested it, the voltage came in at 4.4 volts.

Joe Sargent «;DroneJoe@hotmail.com»
Salt Lake City, Ut. USA

Thu, 30 Dec 04 at 14:33:44

I own the topca 330COS and I measured exactly 6V so it is safe for my eos300D/rebel

note that the flash can only fire at full mode!

Monique «;monique@fotowered.nl»
CA the Netherlands

Wed, 29 Dec 04 at 23:52:40

I have a Vivitar 272 it was make in Korea, and it is running at 74 volts.

Joe Sargent «;DroneJoe@hotmail.com»
Salt Lake, Ut USA

Mon, 27 Dec 04 at 05:18:46

I own a Yashica(Kyocera) CS-220-Auto flash unit - anno 1990.
I measured 10.26 Volts between the centerpin(+) and the outside railcontact(-)
with an APPA-95 multimeter from Advanced Instrument Technology.

Tip for the electronic handyman ...
To use this old flash as an external slave flash, I connected a BPX43 (or equiv.) phototransistor
with its Collector on the centerpin(+, and his Emmitter to the outside railcontact(-).
The Base connection is not used and cutted off ...
The slave flash fires from a distance of ca. 10 feets or 3 meter.

Frans Eggermont

Frans Eggermont «;frans.eggermont@skynet.be»
Waregem, WVL Belgium

Thu, 23 Dec 04 at 19:04:30

VIVITAR 285HV - current info from Vivitar

"The early 285 units made in Japan and Korea, have voltages which could be damaging to the camera's circuitry. The current models of the 285HV made in China have a trigger voltage of approximately 6V."


My 285HV (Made in China) comes in at an average of 5.9 (max 5.94, min 5.8)

ON Canada

Tue, 21 Dec 04 at 15:00:33

Share your pictures with fellow photography enthusiasts. Make money in our weekly photo contest. All genres welcome, in color or black and white, taken with your film or digital camera.

Focal Point Photo Contest «;contact@fp-photocontest.com»

Thu, 16 Dec 04 at 18:22:25

Measured my SunPack Auto 522 Thyristor with the following results;

199V at the sync jack on the main unit.

When used in conjunction with my SunPack Remote Sensor MX-5 w/hotshoe connection
the readings on the MX-5 were as follows;

Sync jack(on MX-5) DED. mode = 13V - NOR. mode = 12.1V

connector (on MX-5) DED. mode = 12.4V - NOR. mode = 11.8V

All readings taken with digital meter....

Very informative site for C-8080 owners...

Ken Ellison

Thu, 16 Dec 04 at 12:41:49

Also, that Quantaray QB350A is just a rebadged Promaster FT1700.

Phil Knight

Wed, 15 Dec 04 at 11:55:28

Quantaray QB-350A measured 90v, with two different sets of batteries, just to be sure.

Phil Knight

Wed, 15 Dec 04 at 01:14:21

Measured voltage on Vivitar Zoom Thyristor 5200 using digital meter. Reading was 9.4 volts.

Lowell R. «;lowellr@swbell.net»
wichita, ks USA

Tue, 14 Dec 04 at 11:43:50

I measured the voltage on a Vivitar 265 flash using a Tenma 72-4030 DMM.

My reading is 177 volts.

Thanks for a very informative website.

Don Goubeaux

Fri, 10 Dec 04 at 08:39:02

Vivitar 5600 System

I contact the Vivitar company and here is the answer.


The 5600 unit has a trigger voltage of 6 so should be safe to use with your
camera. There may be a timing issue with the digital but at least the
voltage will be OK.

Jim Wellington
Vivitar USA Tech Support

Marc Barbeau
Quebec, QC Canada

Thu, 05 Aug 04 at 22:30:57

Thanks for an excellent site! I would like to add some more to your collection.
All flash setting at Manual (M) mode and switch on continuously:

National PE-2057 start to lid LED at 203 Volts direct current (Vdc) and continue raising to 220+ over Vdc until I stop it.

Vivitar 2500 --- 11.63 Vdc fixed and no matter how long switched on.

Pentax AF200T --- 7.31 Vdc fixed also.

I'm using a UEI (Korea) DL-250 Digital Tester.

A separate eMail was also sent ahead to this one making someone happy ;o)

Rino Tan "helloooasan@yahoo.com"

Rino Tan «;helloooasan@yahoo.com»
San Jose, CA USA

Mon, 02 Aug 04 at 15:07:42

Vivitar 2800, fresh alkline batteries.

150V read at end of short PC cord. Used calibrated Radioshack DVM.


JP White «;jpwhite3@bellsouth.net»
Hendersonville, TN USA

Mon, 02 Aug 04 at 00:36:36

Sunpak 222 = 6.97 (Dean Glanville got 6.7, sounds like a great flash!)
Sunpak 90 = 210 (very bad)

Both measured on a digital Fluke 75

Kevin Heider
(first intitial of first name)p(last name) at comcast.net

Kevin Heider
Sacramento, CA USA

Sun, 01 Aug 04 at 19:55:30

I tested the trigger voltage on my Hanimex TZ2500 flash unit and got different results to that posted on your list.

I got 245V (versus the 196V Alaistair got). I was using fresh Lithium photo batteries which may explain the higher voltage. Tested using a Radioshack DVM (Last calibration on 8/29/2003 - was within manufacturers 7V tolerance, it read 3.8V shy of the 350V test voltage).

My digicam (Kodak DX6490) is rated up to 500V for an external flash unit. Sounds impressive and safe but a Kodak technical paper does recommend using a voltage regulator to 'protect the cameras circuitry'.
See http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/publications/tib4378.jhtml

Wonder why they rate it at 500V then tell you to use a regulator? Wonder if it's safe to use the Hanimex unregulated or not? Hmmm....


JPWhite «;jpwhite3@bellsouth.net»
Hendersonville, Tennessee United States

Sat, 24 Jul 04 at 21:40:08

I have a Cannon PowerShot A200 that has an error E25. Can anyone please help? Is it fixable?
Thanks in anticipation.
Jan Wellls.

Jan Wells «;janwells@optusnet.com.au»
Melbourne, VIC Australia

Fri, 23 Jul 04 at 18:28:33

I have an ancient external flash. It says Londa (has anyone heard about this again?) and the model is RX203.
I measured the voltage with an electronic multimeter and it says 203V (does it have any connection with the model name RX203?).
Then I decided to test it with my new Olympus C5060. I checked first on Olympus Yahoo forums FAQ and it is reported that the three Olympus (5050, 5060 and 8080) can tolerate up to 300V. So it should be ok. And it was! I pushed the shutter button, not without fear I must say, but everything went ok at the end!

Dimitris Trifonopoulos
Athens, Greece

Fri, 23 Jul 04 at 10:04:31

I talked to Vivitar the other day, and they reported that the older 285 series of flashes have a synch voltage of 9v if made in Japan, and 300v is made in China. I tested the synch voltage of the one I have from Japan with a voltimeter, and it reports 8.7v, which is consistent with what they told me.

Adam Shahid
Columbia, MO USA

Thu, 15 Jul 04 at 01:05:49

Just let you know that i have measured my Sunpak auto 30SR and have found a volage of 11.25VDC at the hotshoe. This is twice as high you currently have listed. Checked on Fluke DVM.



Shane Booth «;sbooth@cjpearce.com.au»
VIC Aust

Mon, 12 Jul 04 at 07:33:31

I also e-maild to olympus tech-service about trigger voltage for the olympus C 5060, here`s their reply:

"Dear Christoph,

We value you as an Olympus customer and appreciate the opportunity to assist you with this situation.

The flash may or may not work. You may try it, and since the camera has a built in voltage regulator there should be no adverse effects if it does not work."

So I don`t really know, but maybe they changed something (voltage regulator!?)in the newer range of digi cams.

Best regards,

Christoph Leib «;christophleib@gmx.net»

Sat, 10 Jul 04 at 21:18:50

Adorama SS-100M (studio Strobe) voltage: 8.44

Canon 420EX voltage: 4.45

Mark Le «;imagingphotographics.com»
New York, NY USA

Mon, 05 Jul 04 at 10:44:03

I have just measured trigger voltages of two Olympus Quick Auto 310 flashes. Both flashes are quite old, from the 70's I presume. Well here are the results:
flash #1: 152 V
flash #2: 139 V

I hope thisinform ation is usefull to someone.

jsm «;se7en0@hotmail.com»

Sat, 03 Jul 04 at 19:40:42

Trigger voltage for Metz 32 CS-2 measured 4.68 volts.

I asked Olympus tech support about the trigger voltage for the C-8080. This is their reply:

Dear Mr. Shima:

There is no trigger voltage from the camera ; it is whatever is generated
by your flash... The concern is the "Back EMF" generated in that circuit
after the flash has fired. The firing circuit is protected by reverse
polarity so that the Back EMF is not a problem either..

Patrick MacFarlane
Digital Technical Support
Olympus America Inc. Consumer Products Group
1 800 622 6372 ext. 2231
Fax 631 844 5347

Phil Shima «;philshima@earthlink.net»
Capitola, CA USA

Thu, 01 Jul 04 at 11:32:13

Hi Everybody,

Is There Anybody Who Can Tell Me If I Can Use A METZ45CT1 Flash With A NIKONF80 camera pls.
If Yes What Type Of Lead Should I Use? And Will The Flash Damage My Camera As I Heard It's Got A High Voltage About 217v?


Thomas Ormond

Thomas Ormond «;djthomasormond@hotmail.com»
Melbourne, Vic Australia

Wed, 23 Jun 04 at 16:40:11

Tested Sunpak Auto 433 D with volt meter. +6.75 volts at hot shoe contacts. Sunpak tech advised me the extra .75 volts will not damage my Canon A-1 or AE-1Prog.Also when testing pc connections. Take a 3/4 inch piece of heat shrink tubing and slip it over your probe tip.Leave enough off the probe tip so you can make contact with center part of pc connection.This will stop the probe tip from slipping off and causeing a short to the neg part of the pc connecton.It also works with hot shoe contacts.

Bob Rinelli

Wed, 23 Jun 04 at 05:05:10


I've test my cheap Achiever 828 flash trigger voltage and the result it's show 3 volt Only........:)
Thank's to u all..........


Donny «;donug_w@yahoo.com»
CA usa

Wed, 23 Jun 04 at 05:04:01


I've test my cheap Achiever 828 flash trigger voltage and the result it's show 3 volt Only........:)
Thank's to u all..........


Donny «;donug_w@yahoo.com»
CA usa

Tue, 22 Jun 04 at 22:35:20

I just bought a Canon powershot G5 5.0 Mp and find it to be generally very good. I feel that I am not able to zoom in the same way like a Nikon 3.00 mp with 3x optical zoom!!! eg. when trying to zoom at a grduation or closer objects within a couple feet, does not maintain the focus but keeps zooming in and out of focus!!!

Any suggesions Will be greatly appreciated!



Mike A. «;blueindus@yahoo.com»

Fri, 18 Jun 04 at 20:01:25

Glad I found this site before buying a flash for my new Canon G5. Thanks for keeping me from frying things before the warranty even expired by hooking up an old Vivitar 283 to the hotshoe.

Just got a Phoenix slave flash with the hopes of being able to use it with both digital and older 35mm cameras. From your site I was left with the impression that Canon Powershot models all used a pre-flash for the built-in flash. The Phoenix D91 BZS is adjustable for both single and double flash systems. This is a good thing because my G5 seems to operate with a pre-flash when set to "auto" mode but only fires a single flash in "program", "AV", "TV" or "manual" modes as best as I can determine. Even my older Powershot A20 acts similarly: pre-flash in "auto" mode and single flash in "manual" mode. Is this in fact a commom trait with other models as well?

Clay Blackburn «;c.s.blackburn@att.net»
Ft Wayne, IN USA

Fri, 18 Jun 04 at 20:00:16

Glad I found this site before buying a flash for my new Canon G5. Thanks for keeping me from frying things before the warranty even expired by hooking up an old Vivitar 283 to the hotshoe.

Just got a Phoenix slave flash with the hopes of being able to use it with both digital and older 35mm cameras. From your site I was left with the impression that Canon Powershot models all used a pre-flash for the built-in flash. The Phoenix D91 BZS is adjustable for both single and double flash systems. This is a good thing because my G5 seems to operate with a pre-flash when set to "auto" mode but only fires a single flash in "program", "AV", "TV" or "manual" modes as best as I can determine. Even my older Powershot A20 acts similarly: pre-flash in "auto" mode and aingle flash in "manual" mode. Is this in fact a commom trait with other models as well?

Clay Blackburn «;c.s.blackburn@att.net»
Ft Wayne, IN USA

Tue, 15 Jun 04 at 09:05:18


I'm desperate to find basic info regarding National PE-3057 that some of you are using.
I bought the unit used, without a manual, and I don't even know the guide number...



Frederic Fichter «;ffichter@odyssey-group.com»
Lausanne, Switzerland

Wed, 09 Jun 04 at 21:15:29

I am using a Canon PowerShot A80 -- has no hotshoe but can be fully manual. Does the built-in flash use Canon's E-TTL metering system even in M ?? Is there a reasonable way to use a slave strobe with this A80?? Or is this why I should have spent more on a digital SLR or G5?? Thanks for the feedback. Stephen / Miami

Stephen «;news30@earthlink.net»
Miami, FL USA

Sun, 06 Jun 04 at 14:35:25

A strobe measurement :

Model : Agfatronics 280 CB
Result : 29.6 V

Fabrice Lamidey «;flamidey@hotmail.com»
Bordeaux, NO France

Sun, 06 Jun 04 at 04:36:14

Have measured on Metz 28CT5 with Canon- Adaptor SCA310 9,90 Volts.
Good function with Panasonic Lumix FZ 10

Best regards!
Wolfgang Kiefer

Wolfgang Kiefer «;wkiefer@onlinehome.de»
CA Germany

Wed, 26 May 04 at 12:39:36

I have recently bought an Olympus C750uz and was keen to know what constituted a 'high trigger voltage' for this camera, as the manual doesn't state any safe figure. I phoned Olympus UK tech line and was told 6v to 300v (yes 300v!!) was OK for this camera and it was ok with most studio setups.
I was so gobsmacked I forgot to ask if this was because the camera has a built in safety device.
Does anybody else have any info on this camera?

Steve Fahy
Yateley, Hampshire UK

Mon, 24 May 04 at 08:51:21

Measured 3.3V for Vivitar 736AFC and used it for five months : no issue.


Wed, 12 May 04 at 10:18:17

OK I just picked up an Ascorlight Q4 setup with 2 heads. Very nice! I had to fix it, though. When you tried to trigger the strobes it would just make a clicking sound and nothing would happen. So I started tracing through the circuit and found that one of the capacitors was not charging. So I kept looking around and located a 40A triac that looked like it wasn't functioning. So I jumped the gate pin to one side and wala the charge light came on and it worked! So traced backwards and found an optocoupled phototransistor was bad. I couldn't see the number on top because it had worn away. So I went into my parts collection and picked up the first optocoupler that I found and figured what the heck I can't lose anything. Good news is that it worked first time! I also measured the trigger voltage for this reference page. 30V. Good thing I read this page, I would never have known about Canon's low voltage requirement. I am going to go ahead and build the isolator circuit listed on here as that should just take a few minutes and I have all the parts. Hmm if there are other people interested in this circuit I could build them for rather cheap.

Mako Yoshikawa «;myoshik@netscape.net»
Tallahassee, FL USA

Thu, 06 May 04 at 01:48:37

I finally measured my own Sunpak auto22SR trigger voltage and happily put my old, relatively cheap flash on my G3 hotshoe after having a desperate search through the net & e-mail asking to sunpak japan (but got no reply)

Though not using digital voltmeter (i'm using Sanwa analog multitester), i can assure that this measurement is accurate enough. Using the method described in this website too, i got only a small 1.3v - 1.5v from the hotshoe using fresh NiMH batteries. I haven't measured the pc sync .. sorry :)

Using it with G3 or maybe another powershot series, i'm using manual mode on the camera... for normal "in the room" shooting without flash bounce, i found 1/60 shutter speed or above and f5.6 is the average/best setting (based on histogram reading).. note: ND filter off, flash white balance...
this may be vary depends on room/light. taste etc.. still experimenting

Yohanes Iwan Sugiarto «;iwax@softhome.net»
Semarang, Indonesia

Sun, 02 May 04 at 15:57:37

I measured 250v on a Vivitar 283 - which I've now got rid of for that reason!

Bill McKelvie

Fri, 30 Apr 04 at 09:47:16

Soligor Mk-30A 12.56V Measured with High quality digital multimeter.

Bob James

Thu, 29 Apr 04 at 13:55:44

Hello, I just tested two very old strobes (with a voltometer):
1. Elgawa N 128 (made in DDR) it was still about 100V, and
2. Fil IIM (Russia) 200V,
so right now I'm getting a slave unit for my G3 to "free them". ;)

sathraa «;fran_y2k@poczta.onet.pl»

Sun, 25 Apr 04 at 10:03:37

having problems installing my canon powershot A200 as i have no cd.... can anyone help me??

kat «;kat_reading@hotmail.com»
reading, united kingdom

Wed, 21 Apr 04 at 23:39:56

Acquired a used Vivitar 2800D (looks fairly recent) - it has three hot pins. Using a DVM the center pin is (+) 8.6 Vdc There is no SO# Thanks for all the info Karl

Karl «;oasisrm@charter.net»
Lenoir, NC USA

Mon, 19 Apr 04 at 08:42:31

Sunpak 422D NiMiH batteries, Fluke DVM 11.08V.

George Parks «;georgeparks49@yahoo.com»
Bartlesville, OK USA

Wed, 14 Apr 04 at 18:50:02

I borrowed an old Metz 32CT2 with an SCA 311 Hotshoe adapter, for using with my new Canon Rebel Digital (300D in Europe). I was afraid of putting a big Voltage and damaging the Camera, so I measured directly the Voltage from the Flash contacts, and it gave ~3.5V, i.e. under the 6V barrier for the 300D.

I hope this information helps and I would like to obtain confirmation from someone else (I am using it without problems, but one never knows...)


Vincent «;vincent_cartier2003@yahoo.de»
KN, BW Germany

Mon, 12 Apr 04 at 02:00:59

I recently purchased a Agfatronic 280 CB flash. I was wondering if anyone could send me some information on the functions of this flash. thank You.

LeeRoi Wald «;leewald44@hotmail.com»
MB Canada

Sat, 10 Apr 04 at 01:45:37

Each time I am attempting to upload pics to my PC (W2K, 500 Mhz, 128MB, HP) using the Canon Image Browser 1.4, my Windows Explorer freezes on me - have to do a hard reset and intermittedly it starts working - usually the next day. Have reinstalled W2K and the Canon SW - same results. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Where do I get the latest version of the Canon Image Browser, may be that would help!?

Thanks in advance. Martin

Mario «;mario@suchauswahl.de»

Tue, 06 Apr 04 at 05:34:15

First try'ed the AGFATRONIC 320 CBS on my Canon EOS 10D:
First the error 02 appeared
after turning the camera off and on again the strobe works fine.
Measured the voltage and the voltmeter said 160 V
Stop using it now. :-)

Christian Stewart «;ChristianStewart@web.de»
Munich, Germany

Tue, 30 Mar 04 at 05:46:52

Panasonic PE-3057 measured at 9.4V across the hotshoe contacts.

Auckland, CA New Zealand

Sat, 13 Mar 04 at 17:03:05

In the UK, we have Jessops selling the Portaflash range of studio lights.... I've checked out the 336VM as a nice safe 6 volts, center positive.

Guildford, CA UK

Thu, 11 Mar 04 at 12:22:26

where did you bought those "$8 no-name hotshoe slaves" mentioned in your article? Very nice write up, thank you very much for sharing these info!

donghui «;donghui99@hotmail.com»

Wed, 10 Mar 04 at 15:56:56

What CANON or non CANON external flash works safe with CANON poweshot G3?
Thank You

dan «;calugarucdan@yahoo.com»

Wed, 10 Mar 04 at 07:39:47

Mesured TOPCA 330 EOS and voltage is 3.8 - 5.7 V.

Working with Canon Powershot G5.


Japi «;japi00@poczta.wp.pl»

Tue, 02 Mar 04 at 21:58:43

Chinon S-250 Zoom


I've been using it unknowningly for 3 years now with my G1, no problems so far....

Scott Martin
Evans, GA USA

Tue, 02 Mar 04 at 13:45:50

i have a canon A200 that is reading error 25.i have searched the support website ...nothing on e25 does anyone know what an error 25 is or how it can be fixed?

ted «;tedc001@hotmail.com»

Fri, 20 Feb 04 at 13:12:12

New to photography, i purchased a second hand Black's CB 32 swivel flash. It came with no instructions and although it was explained to me upon purchase i cannot recall how to use it properly. What do the red and blue dots and the M do? How do I read the scale on the back? Thanks for the help.

Brian Crisby «;Tasphren@hotmail.com»
Toronto, On Canada

Sun, 15 Feb 04 at 22:58:54

I too am disillusioned with Canon - your comment (aprox) "it's a consumer camera so we don't care if it works or not" hit it on the nose. - I expect to switch to Minolta if their DLSR with inbody stabilization really works - this fall. I have a Pro90 (my first digital) and the Canon 10D with 28-135 IS and 75-300 IS. The 10D and lenses work wonderfully well - marvellous sensor, great quality prints - but I have no faith any more in Canon. I have $6000 I had expected to spend on another 10D body and more lenses but this will go where I switch...

A dreadful shame because when they are good they are very, very good - but my impression is they just don't care any more so any further investment is contraindicated...

willie408 «;willie408@cableone.net»
Clarkston, WA USA

Fri, 13 Feb 04 at 01:10:53

Also, my Metz 44 MZ-2 measures 3.5 volts.

Mark Bouquet «;mlbouquet@msn.com»
Burlingame, CA USA

Fri, 13 Feb 04 at 01:08:40

The trigger voltage of my Olympus S20 flash measures 10 volts with fresh batteries. This is one you didn't have in your chart.

Mark Bouquet «;mlbouquet@msn.com»
Burlingame, CA USA

Thu, 12 Feb 04 at 08:26:10

Sunpak G4500 measured 7.06 volts using a DVM.(Seven point Zero Six).

ejb «;eric@burke29.freeserve.co.uk»

Mon, 09 Feb 04 at 09:23:57

I had a problem with my Canon G1 and it turned out to be a fuse. I recorded my fix and posted it on this site. I hope it is helpful.

David Voeller «;dvoeller@hunter.com»
Saint Louis, MO USA

Tue, 27 Jan 04 at 23:35:59

I didn't find this page until tonight. I have been using a Vivitar 283 connected to the hotshoe by cable with an ordinary (not sync-safe) adapter. It worked fine for about a year. Recently, the 283 seemed to develop a short circuit. i bought another used one and can't get it to work. I may have damaged the hotshoe circuit. The camera works fine as does the built in flash.

If that is the case, is it worth fixing? Can it be fixed.

Second question: Will the Canon Speedlite transmitter trigger a peanut flash on a non-Canon unit?

Any help much appreciated.

Steve Oakley «;sbug10@aol.com»
Toronto, ON Canada

Sun, 25 Jan 04 at 12:02:52

Image CB-21 swivel head trigger voltage +63.5V
Measured per your instructions with DVOM.


Sun, 25 Jan 04 at 11:28:59

Black's Camera auto-flash swivel head CB32

Trigger voltage = 64V positive polarity

Measured with digital multimeter following your instructions:

Positive on single pin, negative on rail contact.

Thanks for saving my digital camera!

Burlington, ON Canada

Thu, 22 Jan 04 at 06:27:13

GREAT Informational site. I tested the following units with my Radio Shack digital multimeter with 10 MegaOhms Impedance. SOLIGOR: MK-9A = 242v, MK-30A = 13v, MK-10A = 216v. VIVITAR: 2800 = 140v. NIKON: SB-27 = < 6v. (All positive voltages) Thanks for all the great info and instruction. Dan L.

Dan Lauborough «;Dan@Lauboro.com»

Tue, 20 Jan 04 at 09:31:00

Thanks for an excellent sight. Trying to put my fears at ease after reading all the "should work" comments. I just purchased Canon G5. I currently shoot nikon F100 for film and want to eventually add Nikon digital slr to my setup. ? is can I fire my Nikon SB-28 with the extra pins taped on the G5 hotshoe or with my Nikon SC-17 extension sync cable? Also I've been reading about options for off camera firing with digital cameras. Anyone have experience yet with the Wein digital smart slaves or the Ikelite lite-link. These supposedly work with film or digital and would be cheaper than buying a new Canon 420Ex/550Ex. Finally, the voltage stats for the SB-28 are within range of the 6v powershot max. Would a wein safe sync take care of the proprietary pins and make taping them unnecessary? Could a standard hot shoe to hot shoe adapter take care of this since the voltage is within range? Sure appreciate any real world experience or suggestions. Thanks

Jim «;jstur@amigo.net»
Buena Vista, CO USA

Tue, 20 Jan 04 at 00:39:38


Anyone can help me?

I would like to know that the volts of the Trigger Voltage of Nissin Auto 400ZW Thyristor Flash.


hkmediocrity «;hkmediocrity@hotmail.com»

Sun, 18 Jan 04 at 22:54:55

Hi..I have a Canon Powershot Pro70 camera...I have a Albinar MDZ-80 electronic flash.
The voltage measures at +3.02 VDC for the triggering..I can't not get this to go "flash"
on this camera..

What I am asking here is ; Shouldn't I be able to use a digital ohm/voltmeter to measure
(detect) whether the camera's hotshoe circuitry in still "ok" to use?

I have learned that the left hand side "shoe -rail" has a " switch " ; built into along
the show rail that needs to be depressed...to activate a " 1/90 sec " shutter speed on
this camera (for use with non dedicated flashes)...

It also states you MUST select a manually selected f/stop (can't use F/stop AUTO MODE).

I can manually trigger the flash by shorting neg (shoe rails) to pos.center on the flash.

So my final question here is (Shouldn't I be able to connect the neg. lead from the
digital meter to the shoe rail.(I've put a wedge to push the switch contacts closed
to simulate the flash shoe closing the switch when inserted into the slide rails)
; then the pos. meter lead touch to the center (conductor)on the camera and fire
the shutter...and detect whether there's a close /open switching
happening ( to in essence symbolize the shorting out of the 2 leads on the flash?

Please let me know any of any suggestions..(Oh by the way this is my 1st post here ;
great site..every section of it !)...I am expecting a Used Canon Powershot Pro90 IS
camera bought off eBay.I have been reading ALL info I can about this camera..

Take care ; happy shooting and tinkering ( if you fix things relating to photography.)
Bye for now Ed~

this middle of this week

One_Eye_Ed «;techoguy4u@dctmail.com»

Thu, 15 Jan 04 at 18:01:49


Just measured the trigger-voltage of my Cullmann DC36, built in the end-1980s (~1989).
The Trigger-voltage is 5.78V, so it's good for my digicam (Kodak's DC4800).
They tell their customers (in a hard to find support-page, http://www.kodak.com/global/en/service/tib/tib4319.shtml#SEC122-SUBSEC1) that there is a limit for trigger voltages down to 6V. And I hoped I can use my Hensel's Studio-Equipment (210V trigger) <sigh>.

Hope this is a little help

Roland «;roland.koelzer@t-online.de»
, LS Germany

Tue, 13 Jan 04 at 16:21:40

Sigma EF-430ST, good couple of years old, Minolta TTL mount:
4.75V very stable (repeated measurements)

Sigma's reply to my question about 430ST suitability for Minolta A1 use:

"Thank you for your email, our technical dept do not recommend using your EF430ST with a digital camera.
We do supply a DG flash gun which will be compatible for Minolta fit, if you would like some info on this please contact us.
01707 329999
Sigma Imagimg uk"

Go figure...?

Mihajlo «;fdlsys@yournet.co.za»
, South Africa

Mon, 12 Jan 04 at 12:40:14

Topca 330AF -- 12.0V

It is voltage between central contact and contact in hot shoe rail. It was measured with digital and analog multimeter (2k/V). Digital one showed higher voltage. I believe it is due to higher input impedance of digital multimeter so it is more accurate.

Ivan Drian «;ivandrian@yandex.ru»

Fri, 24 Oct 03 at 13:12:52

Flash voltages

  • Contax TLA 200 4.11 v.
  • Fuji GA 3.52 v.
  • Konica Hexar HX-14 Auro 5.89 v.
  • Vivitar 2800 about 40 v.

EJ Haas «;ejhaas@loxinfo.co.th»
, Thailand

Tue, 21 Oct 03 at 14:54:08

Hello everyone, Thank you for your input on the voltages on flashes, it has really helped! Anyways, I recently bought a used Nishika 3D N8000 camera and the flash is a Nishika Twin Light 3010. it tested at a heart stopping 307v! Wont be using this flash on my EOS! I also checked my tester and it tested ok, the 307v is accurate. Hope this info helps!

Brian Lindley <brianlindley@hotmail.com>
western, wa USA

Fri, 17 Oct 03 at 12:30:30

I've got an old Sunpak model "auto266SR". It peaks at 5.7v measured with a good digital multimeter, with fresh NiMH batteries. I see it cycle down to 0v then back up to 5.7v in a couple of seconds when I test-fire it, so I'm pretty darned sure I'm measuring the voltage correctly. You can add it to the list if you'd like.

To email me, remove NOSPAM and replace DOT-CALM with .com in my email addy :)

Zapped <d3NOSPAMzapped@yahooDOT-CALM>
Austin, TX USA

Wed, 15 Oct 03 at 09:28:10

Hi, I've used with my CASIO QV-4000 more than 10 years old strobe Topca 330CX. Its voltage is fantastic 3.42V.

Oto Durkovic

Tue, 14 Oct 03 at 04:55:42

Tumax 116 45volts
Osram BC25studio 44volts
directly measured by digital multimeter

Daniele Benvenuti <benvenutid@tiscali.it>

Mon, 13 Oct 03 at 18:46:16

Hi All

I can't see canon RAW files in Photoshop 6. Do I have to add a plugin, if so where do I get it from.
I use Win98SE. Any one tried the Vivitar DF200 remote slave with power level adjustment.
Thanks in advance.

Alan Jarvis <alan-jarvis@ntlworld.com>

Fri, 10 Oct 03 at 19:41:01

I have a mid 70's vintage Vivitar 283 flash (auto thyristor), made in Japan, s/n 5108247. I measured the trigger voltage at 215 V using my Radio Shack Digital Multimeter model 22-191. I had just put brand new AA batteries in the flash.

I also just called Olympus tech support to see if I can use my 215 V flash on my C5050 Zoom camera. The tech guy didn't know and neither did his mentor, but he called the headquarters and talked to an engineer. The engineer had tried that flash and said it would work as is. However, he recommended, just to be safe, to get a safe sync capacitor. Local photo stores don't sell one, but Wein supposedly makes one.

Van <VanHWhite@Juno.com>
Newport News, VA USA

Fri, 10 Oct 03 at 09:23:41

Trigger voltage on sunpak digital remote. As soon as I touch one lead of the multimeter to the hotshoe edge conector the flash fires! So I can't measure the voltage. WHY


Alan Jarvis

Fri, 10 Oct 03 at 07:29:59

Trigger voltage on sunpak digital remote. As soon as I touch one lead of the multimeter to the hotshoe edge conector the flash fires! So I can't measure the voltage. WHY


Alan Jarvis

Mon, 06 Oct 03 at 03:04:52


I just came across a Suntax 328 DTZ. With all the talk of trigger voltage concerns, I would like to be reassured that this particular flash is safe to use. The sales lady says the trigger voltage is 9V. However, there are other pins too. Is this safe to use on the digital camera?


Rex Crystal <rexjcrystal@yahoo.com>

Fri, 03 Oct 03 at 17:33:21

I was concern about if my Canon EOS Camera will handle my new Vivitar 2000 thyristor flash.
I have just measured the strobe votage and it is 2 V. I bought this flash two days ago.
You might want to update your web site.

Alexander <ahavriluk@yahoo.net>

Mon, 22 Sep 03 at 06:17:57

Hi all,

Any experience/ideas on using a Contax TLA 360 with the Canon G3?


Olle af Geijerstam <olle.af.geijerstam@gotlandica.se>
Stockholm, Sweden

Fri, 19 Sep 03 at 04:49:42

Anti-spam test one (will disappear soon)

Kevin Bjorke <bjorke@botzilla.com>
Santa Clara, CA USA

Sun, 14 Sep 03 at 23:10:40

Hi, I have a G3 and a speedlite 380EX. I have been performing various tests in my equipment. First of all, strobe built-in assist beam doesn't really work with G3. I'm not sure about a firmware update to improve this feature. I'll take a look. I've heard that firmware update can be dangarous. You can halt your camera system completely if the update is not correct. Have you heard about this?
E-TTL works fine in all modes except "M" mode. The drawback is that f/2.0 is always set. I think using manual mode must be very dificult, as soon as, you have to set the aperture for each exposure. You have to check the object's distance and the strobe zoom, and know exactly each GN for each strobe zoom position. It must be tiresome.
I will continue testing my equipment and I will inform you of each news.
I still have a Wein safe sinc and I will test it with a non-dedicates Canon strobe.
Best Regards,

Roberto de Castro <robertoc@uninet.com.br>
Niteroi, RJ Brazil

Thu, 28 Aug 03 at 17:30:10

Thank you for this board. It has given me a wealth of information. I just measured the trigger voltage on my Sunpak 611 (unkown vintage, I bought it used). It was measured on the hot shoe auto attachment. I used a friend's top of the line Micronita (Radio Shack) digital multimeter with fresh batteries. The flash had new alkaline cells. At full charge, with the flash set at full power ratio, (man.) the trigger voltage reads 44.4 V. I also used my $29.95 cheapie and got a reading of 45 V. I think the theory about the varying quality of components is spot on.

Charlie Richards <charlief64@juno.com>
Laguna Niguel, CA USA

Thu, 21 Aug 03 at 12:13:21

Subject: Flash voltages for older units.

  • My older Sunpak 522 reads 26 volts.
  • My older Vivitar 283 reads at 262 volts.
I use both on my older mechanical Nikons and even on my new Fuji S602z digital. Fuji claims that you can use any automatic flash and they seem to be correct. Never had a problem and have used these flashes extensively. Aparently, Fuji incorporates an internal hot shoe based voltage reducer as part of their electronics. Excellent camera for a digital. They offer the first digital to have a built in hot shoe and have apparently taken the voltage problem into account.

Michael G. Leventhal <dublin9@aol.com>

Sat, 16 Aug 03 at 17:49:04

Your site has great design, absolutely stunning photographs, and lots of great information to boot. I'll definitely be stopping by photorants again to learn more from you. Thanks for sharing all this great stuff with people. :)

Aaron <aclogan@pobox.com>
Pasadena, CA USA

Thu, 07 Aug 03 at 23:50:40

I tested some of my little strobes... Trigger voltage on

  • Britek AS-36 strobe-1 5.30v
  • Britek AS-36 strobe-2 2.50v
  • Vivitar 3700 with DM/C(canon FD adapter) 8.80v

Peter P <silverwindstudio@hotmail.com>

Tue, 05 Aug 03 at 18:17:25

I have an old Sunpak BZ 2600 D flash unit and want to use it on my Fuji FinePix 602 as an external flash. Can it damage the camera?

Peter Vit <vitxx@isdn.net.il>

Tue, 05 Aug 03 at 15:03:17

Hi, my friend told me to come see the design on your website and I am very impressed. I must say whoever did the design should keep up the great work :)

Edonkey <p2p.edonkey@firemail.de>

Tue, 05 Aug 03 at 01:09:06

I just wanted to say that I am looking at the PowerShot G3 and I found your "Secrets of PowerShot Flash Photography" quite helpful on the subject of making my old flash units work with the PowerShot.
I wanted to leave a tip for anyone setting up an off-camera studio strobe setup: Buy the cheapest strobe unit that you can safely mount on the hotshoe of your PowerShot. Use this as the trigger for the slaves on your external flashes. To avoid flooding the scene with the light from your mounted flash, cover the business end with unexposed slide film that has been processed. This will block the visible light but still trigger your slaves. Cool huh?

Mark Hannon <mark@hannon-illustration.com>
Stratford, CT USA

Tue, 29 Jul 03 at 17:07:05

I measured the trigger voltage of my Agfatronic 280 CB flash and it seems to be at least 50 Volt.
(The internal resistance of my el'cheapo voltmeter is not high enough - when I measure at the 10 Volt scale it shows 2 Volt but on the 500 Volt scale it gives roughly 50 Volt - so the actual trigger voltage might be even higher.) Eek, no more use of that one on my EOS camera :-/
Nice and useful site btw. :)

Anders Gidenstam <anders-www (at) gidenstam.org>

Mon, 21 Jul 03 at 14:55:53

I recently bought a Nikon F65D unit with Sigma UC Asperical 28-200mm lens with MB17 attached. A Sunpak PZ4000af Flash unit to support any low light shooting.
I would like to have a comments/suggestions on my set-up and even tips or info about it (like trigger voltage, addtional equipment etc.) Any suggestions or comment is highly appreciated!!!!
I hope to hear from anybody's comment!!!!

Tanni Pangilinan <tanni@graphic-designer.com>
Manila, Mla Philippines

Sat, 19 Jul 03 at 09:52:30

I am an amateur photographer. An amateur in love with the moment. My photographs express what i see through my own eyes. Havent you realized that each one of us has a special way of seeing things?

Kalli Bellou <kalibellou@vip.gr>
Athens, Greece

I couldn't agree with you more, of course. Did you see this recent PhotoRant entry (actually pre-dating your mail)?
Fri, 11 Jul 03 at 22:44:38

Hi, Just tested my old electroic flash. Focal (Kmart brand)Pro-700 Professional automatic thyristor bounce electronic flash.Voltage that I measured was 229V. No hot shoe.Pc socket hook up. Don't know who made it for K-mart. Too bad to. Takes great pictures. Love the bounce flash. Just bought a used Canon A1. I was going to use the flash with the A1.I can't thank you enough for your Web Site.
Thank You,

Bob Rinelli <taysteetoo@cs.com>
No. Brunswick, NJ USA

Fri, 11 Jul 03 at 10:41:09

Dear Sir/Madam,
I am the webmaster of http://www.digital-camera-review.us website.
This site has reviews and buying guide for all digital cameras and accessories found online.
We saw your site and found it interesting and with quality content so we thought its worth to contact you for exchanging links. Will you please link our site on yours ? We will be very grateful to you if you do so.
This will benefit both of us in link popularity and enhance visitor's experience and traffic. If you are interested, you can also submit your link for inclusion on our site at http://www.digital-camera-review.us/submit.html On submission, your link will immediately added at http://www.digital-camera-review.us/links.html This links page is linked from all the pages on our site. Our link information :
Title : Digital-Camera-Review.us - Digital camera reviews and
buying guide online
URL : http://www.digital-camera-review.us
Thanking you in anticipation, Webmaster http://www.digital-camera-review.us

Sanjay <bsanjay41@hotmail.com>

Fri, 11 Jul 03 at 01:56:59

After 2 years of nearly perfect performance, my G1 died. Canon replaced the DC/DC converter(for $155.00). I am finding out(through forums) that this is a fairly common problem in G1s but Canon says they know nothing about it. Your site doesn't mention it. What's the truth in this matter?

Ron <rsa982002@yahoo.com>

Wed, 09 Jul 03 at 17:09:57

Sunpak 622 Super trigger voltage is 8V, measured with DVM.

Tim Brown <brownt@flash.net>

Tue, 08 Jul 03 at 20:35:37

Someone asked about the Sunpak pz5000 trigger voltage. It's 6v, it is designed for and is therefore safe to use it in any modern cameras. I use it with an expensive digital SLR


Sun, 29 Jun 03 at 04:14:33

Where do you go to download zoombrowser I can olnly find where to update it.

marilyn Roach <mazbob@ispdr.net>
Shell Cove, nsw Australia

Fri, 27 Jun 03 at 19:56:43

WOCTRON 2500PC: very cheap up-down/left-right swivelling flash unit. It's not thyristor based. Voltage at the hot shoe contacts is 5.5V (measured with DVM, 10 megohm input resistance). I am guessing that it's thyristor based cousin (2500SC) exhibits high contact voltage, although I didn't had the opportunity to test one. I am basing this assumption on the fact that, when a thyristor is used, the gate triggering voltage comes from the anode of the thyristor (which has high voltage). On such a cheap flash, most chances are that a special drive circuitry is not used and the anode voltage appears on the contacts.
So, if you are afraid of frying your camera, measure the 2500SC before buying. Otoh, 2500PC is entirely safe for any type of modern camera.

Dimitrios Papadopoulos

Thu, 26 Jun 03 at 06:48:06

I've done the metering for the Cullmann DC32 flash, it's 6.3V
Hope this helps someone.

Tom Crowning <crowning@gmx.net>
?, USA

Thu, 19 Jun 03 at 11:13:05

Canon US (after a bit of kicking - they started off with the "we don't support third party products and won't help" and I had to write a snooty email about their customer service motto to actually contact anyone who knew anything...!) confirmed by email that a G3 can be damaged by trigger voltages above 6v. They also said that the Wein-safe sync might help...

With the aid of a ($Aus10 ) multimeter, the voltage of my Cobra Auto 250 tested at 66V or thereabouts....while the accuracy of the meter is uncertain it would have to be very inaccurate indeed for this to be a safe unit!

As I couldn't find a safe-sync here in Australia, I am now using my flash as a slave with the aid of a second-hand bracket and a Wein peanut slave. With the G3 set on manual mode the flash will only fire once and the slave will fire correctly. (I think you can also set the flash manually in other modes, but I haven't tried it yet) Works pretty well - and the bracket balances a lot better than a hot-shoe mounted flash, although it does get in the way of the flip out screen a bit. The on board flash at low settings fills ou the shadows in the bounce nicely, and if i don't want that , I just cover it with my hand - the slave is blu-taced to the front of the flash so it still see enough reflected light to fire.

Susan Stewart
Adelaide, Australia

Fri, 13 Jun 03 at 22:50:34

I recently bought a Canon Powershot A200. Because of some unfortunate events I lost my Canon software cd. I manage to download some of the softwares but can somebody tell me where do I download Zoombrowser Ex. Been searching the web for it but all I can find are the updates...............Arghhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh

Torham <torham97@yahoo.com.sg>
singapore, Singapore

Fri, 13 Jun 03 at 20:47:11

Does anybody know how to get the effects of a slow synch flash on a Canon G2? Is this at all possible? Any information would be great! Thanks!

Andy Wakefield <awakefield@whitworth.edu>
Spokane, WA USA

Thu, 12 Jun 03 at 12:54:14

Your reviews stated that the Canon Powershot G1 and G2 were incompatible with Mac OS X. Rubbish! Just stick the camera in and open Image Capture or iPhoto and download the photos. Works with both cameras on all my machines (Powerbook G4, G4 and iMac). Just because Canon doesn't have Mac OS X drivers doesn't mean it won't work. Such an error makes me wonder what else you might have got incorrect on your otherwise brilliant reviews.

Steve <grabberslasher@hotmail.com>

At the time I wrote that, it was perfectly True. Since then Jaguar has appeared and while I use it every day, I've taken to linking my Canon to the XP machine. I'm currently using the Mac OSX Canon File Viewer Utility which is an okay OSX program but doesn't download movieclips from my G1. So I use the latest Zoombrowser EX under XP instead (talks to the Digital Elph/Ixus, too).
Thu, 12 Jun 03 at 12:37:26

I need the manual of metz 402 its possibel to send me to my mail? thank you

Ricardo Marques <richie.marx@portugalmail.pt>

Thu, 12 Jun 03 at 01:03:35

i have a canon g2 and a 420ex speedlite

in the past 2 weeks i have noticed that sometimes when i power up the camera and the flash, the camera seems to ignore the flash's presence and either does not fire (although the situation calls for a flash) or it fires with the shutter set at such a slow (non flash) speed that the image is obliterated by the flash

has anyone had problems with the physical hotshoe connection on the g2?

it does not appear to be broken and the flash locks down with the rotary clamp, but i get the impression that there is something "loose" in the connection which makes it not work soemtimes and work at other times

any experience, advice, suggestions would be most welcome

thank you for your time


sheldon <mdshd@earthlink.net>
englewood, nj USA

Wed, 11 Jun 03 at 20:50:02

Where can I get a Canon Powershot G2 (good price, $400-$450) in Houston or Miami? Can anybody help me!!!

john stewart <jmhf99@yahoo.com>
houston, tx USA

Wed, 11 Jun 03 at 01:32:59

Just got off the phone to Canon Australia (before finding your useful site I would say, as I'd only heard a whisper of potential problems with old flashes and canon digicams before I came here five minutes ago)...the person I spoke to there told me that there would be no danger using my old Cobra Auto 250 flash on my G3 (whether it works or not is a different issue!), despite neither her nor I having a clue of the trigger voltage.(ie similar advice to that from Canon Canada)...but after reading this site, I'm not game to try it without either having checked the voltage or having it in writing from Canon so that I can get any repairs done under warranty......
Has anyone actually fried the circuits in a G3 using a high voltage flash? And as I don't have the equipment to test the voltage myself, has anyone tried/tested this Cobra flash, or have an email adress for Cobra, who are also UK based. (flash was purchased in Australia, - and I don't want to have to make a series of international phone calls to track the info down!!)

Susan S

Reports of damage usually don't come to me - they come to repair shops and Canon. I have heard a couple of woeful tales about worst-case strobes, however.
Tue, 10 Jun 03 at 06:55:48

I have recently started business where i intend to shoot my products for my business using my digital camera canon a40. I also have two studio strobes i can trigger my studio strobes with flash on camera but result is not consistent

Gagan <photography_made_easier@yahoo.co.in>

Thu, 05 Jun 03 at 08:14:38

Hi there,

I reported voltage readings of between 9.5 and 11.3 for my Olympus T32 flashgun. I have since found my other T32 and it gives a steady reading of 11.4 volts.

Tom Mac Inerney <tmacinerney@mymeteor.ie>
Dublin, Ireland

Thu, 29 May 03 at 09:10:04

Hi there,
I measured the voltages on 2 flasguns. My Olympus T32 that I bought in 1980 gave a reading of between 9.5 and 11.3 volts. For some reason I got lower readings using new Duracell batteries than batteries from the same batch that were partly used!. Anyway, the voltages were not stable during measurement.

I next measured the voltage from a small UNOMAT B20C Flashgun which takes 2 AA batteries. I got a reading of 210 volts!

I used a new HILKA Digital Multimeter with an input impedance of 10 M ohms to take the measurements. When I used an old AVO multimeter of unknown impedance I got readings of about 2.5 volts - I did not trust them.

I have used the T32 on my Canon G3 and as I have not been having problems I will continue to risk it. I tried to use the Unomat, but it would not fire - probably just as well. Maybe the G3 has a cut-off mechanism to detect higher voltages?.

Tom Mac Inerney <tmacinerney@mymeteor.ie>
Dublin, Ireland

Mon, 19 May 03 at 18:55:10

Thank you for your information about strobe voltages. However, you did not have the data on the strobe that I needed, so I contacted the company, Sunpak at "tocadamerica" <tocadamerica@msn.com> with my question, "Can you tell me how many volts the Sunpak model 522 come into
contact with the camera plug?" The response I received was "Usually 190 volts dc- not recommended with modern electronic cameras."
Keep up the good work.

Michael Foos <foosathome@earthlink.net>

Fri, 16 May 03 at 21:49:41

The trigger voltage on my newer Vivitar 285HV measured around 8V, whereas it measured around 195V on my old Sunpak 522, and 265V on my ancient Vivitar 283! Thanks for providing information regarding this sort of thing.


Thu, 15 May 03 at 01:20:38

(Not on your chart)

Vivitar Series 1, 600 M/P/O (dedicated to Minolta, Pentax, Olympus TTL), guide number 120, zoom, 270 degree swivel, & tilt flash-head.

Trigger Voltage - 8.7 volts.

Works exceptionally well on Sony DSC-F717 with the flash's own flash sensor. (No TTL capalbe hot-shoe on the F717.)

Keoeeit <anshel@NOSPAMmailcity.com>

Wed, 14 May 03 at 18:39:22

Thankfully I ran into this site before heavily using my newly acquired Minolta X-700 camera with an old Achiever 260T flash.

I measured 253 volts with my Fluke multimeter.

Hopefully using this 3-4 times with my X-700 didn't damage anything....

Mike Marty <mikem@cs.NOSPAM.wisc.edu>
Madison, WI USA

Tue, 13 May 03 at 14:59:26

Just tested the G3 with the 380EX - the AF assist red LED on the flash will not light up. The white light from the G3 will be activated every time.

Very nice & useful site!


Dan Nutu <dannutu@k.ro>
Bucharest, Romania

Thu, 08 May 03 at 15:05:13


I am wondering if you know if there is any way to trigger an external non-Canon flash using the Canon G3. I will be using the G3 in studio. Instead of using the flash built into the camera, I want to use my Norman studio lights.

Right now I use Kodak cameras that have PC synch cord outlets. Thats just wonderful, but the cameras are getting old and unreliable.

So far I have been told that there is a "hot-shoe/PC adapter" will allow me to use your G3 with studio strobes. Do you know where I can buy this adpater? I assume it's third-party because Canon told me their hot-shoe cord only connects to Canon strobes.

Heres another question:

When my Kodak DC-4800 is too far for a synch cord, I just use the built in flash in the camera. That flash triggers the $15 slave trigger attached to my Norman powerpack and they all go off together and somehow the exposure is always right on. Can I do that with the G3? (Ive tried this with other cameras and didnt work. Apparently there is a lag between their shutter and external flash and the light from the external flash never reaches the CCD).

I am posting a copy of this to the newsgroup also, but I thought I write to you directly since you are the Canon strobe expert.

Thanks a bunch,


Crispy <polaatx@yahoo.com>

Yes, there is a preflash lag on all ETTL strobe units
Thu, 08 May 03 at 12:22:50

I questioned if I had to stick with Canon EX's to be compatible with my new G3. I queried Tocad (Sunpak) ... thought your readers might be interested in their answer.

From :
"tocadamerica" <tocadamerica@msn.com>
To :
"Sadie Jean Templeton" <templetons@hotmail.com>
Subject :  
RE: 420EX equivalent

Date :
Thu, 8 May 2003 10:45:51 -0400

Unfortunately, at this time we do not have any flashes or interface modules
that are totally compatible with the G3.

Although there is nothing in production at this time, digital dedicated
flashes and modules are under development, and we hope to have something
available in the near future. Please check our web site, www.sunpak.com
occasionally for updates.

Thank you,

ToCAD America

Customer Service

Joe Templeton <templetons@hotmail.com>
Gallatin, Tn USA

Thanks Joe!
Mon, 05 May 03 at 15:55:43

Nice site, seems to be very popular!


Sun, 04 May 03 at 09:46:01

On your site I have found that for what I was looking for.

Claudia L. <I-hate-spam@privat.dwd>
trzrt, fgh USA

Sun, 27 Apr 03 at 22:55:16

I have a Nikon Speedlite model SB-26, last week I bought a Canon G3. Do you know where I can buy a hot shoe (adapter) for my SB-26 to use on Canon G3 flash.

Sinh Bui <sinhb@optonline.net>
Bridgeport, CT USA

Sadly, the electronics are different. No simple adapter can do the job
Sun, 27 Apr 03 at 07:53:06


aquarium fish poisson

Bien merci!
Wed, 23 Apr 03 at 23:18:35

Will a canonspeedlite 533g dedicate to a canon T70?

Ray <revival_center@hotmail.com>
Marysville, Ca USA

As I recall, yes — the 533 was a synch equivalent to the 199A etc
Sun, 20 Apr 03 at 18:21:11

Stumbled onto your site through a forum at Gary Fong's digital photographer site and went to the studio and measured everything I had that could be hooked to a PC connection. I have the same Radio Shack meter pictured here.

I have 6 Paul Buff Ultra 600's:
  1. 13.6v
  2. 10.3v
  3. 10.2v
  4. 9.3v
  5. 10.2v
  6. 9.8v
The Radio Remote One Transmitter from Buff: 4.84v
Sunpak 120J w/Hi Voltage Battery TR-PAK II: 1. 11.6v
and a 120JTTL same battery: 2. 10.9v 10.9v
Metz 60CT-1 w/dry fit battery: (over 15 years old) 24.9v
Vivitar 285 (over 20 years): 7.8v
Quantum Radio Slave II Transmitter: 8.98v
I appreciate your listing of this info and hope this helps in some small way.
Bryce Turner

Bryce Turner <bryceturnerwv@yahoo.com>
Ravenswood, WV USA

Wed, 16 Apr 03 at 18:12:39

How much flash trigger voltage can a camera take?

Pentax, in reply to an inquiry I made directly to them last year, says their SLRs are safe up to 600 volts, but I have learned from the College of Hard Knocks that the PZ-1 and SF-10 lock up when used with a Vivitar 2800 non-dedicated flash (300 volts), and won't work again unless the battery is removed and the camera allowed to sit a few minutes for the circuitry to reset.

SOME cameras with electronically controlled shutters and programmed flash still used hardwired tungsten flash sync contacts safe to hundreds of volts, example: Pentax LX.

Gene Poon

Thanks for the info!
Wed, 16 Apr 03 at 06:40:10

Hi All,

I have just measured my Metz 30 BCT4 flash unit. It has 172 V trigger voltage.

Budapest, Hungary

Mon, 14 Apr 03 at 15:35:55

Measured my Braun Ultrablitz 32M (says "Dedicated System SCA 300" at the front, but SCA 340 at rear) at 2.56-3.56 Volts. Measured all pin combinations (three pins) and the only pins to give a voltage reading gave the 2.56 - 3.56 Volt.


Tue, 08 Apr 03 at 10:49:10

I have two important questions. I am shooting jewelry close-ups with a Nikon CoolPics 4500. I have a database I designed in access to store the pictures and info.

1) I have been looking all over the web trying to find a Twain source for the Nikon CoolPics 4500 camera so I can directly input the images from the camera to the computer via the USB cable. Is there such a thing for the Nikon CoolPics 4500?? Is the Nikon Capture software designed for this? If so, is there a version for the CoolPics 4500 camera?

2) I have been using some pastel backgrounds for my jewelry shots in order to select the foreground, but the pastel colors reflect on to the piece. Is there a method of foreground selection that is better suited for jewelry?

Thank you in advance for your attention.


      `9_ 9  )   `-.  (     ).`-.__.`)
      (_x_.)'  ._   )  `._ `. ``-..-'
    _..`--'_..-_/  /--'_.' ,'
   (il).-''  (li).'  ((!.-'

Sean Choquette <seanchoq@comcast.net>
Albuquerque, NM USA

Actually, I have no idea about Nikon's software. Sorry!
Tue, 08 Apr 03 at 00:54:15

Thought you might want to know-

Vivitar, 4900T handle mount flash (rare) has a trigger voltage of 4.2 volts

Wolfgang Kurth <designer@toast.net>
Voorheesville, NY USA

Sun, 06 Apr 03 at 07:16:25

I have measured the voltages on the pins of a Contax TLA20 flash, to check the accuracy of the report already posted on your web site. I checked these voltages in both Lo and Hi settings, but not the AUTO setting. Both results are the same. I used a Hewlett Packard E2378A digital multimeter, which should have a fairly high impedence. The voltage after charging is 4.2 volts on the central pin. When the flash is discharged the voltage goes to zero, and then gradually rises again to 4.2 V. One of the other pins charges to 3.8 V at full charge, also discharging essentially
to zero on discharge. (See pin diagram below.) All voltages are positive, and measured with respect to the slide contact on the hot shoe. Hope this is clear. Of course a multimeter cannot check for short, high-voltage pulses.

(This pin shows about 0.2 V at full charge) x x (This pin shows 3.8 V at full flash charge.)

x (central pin, 4.2 V at full charge.)

Peter Dewdney <peter_dewdney@hotmail.com>
Penticton, BC Canada

Sun, 06 Apr 03 at 00:13:48

The voltage on my newly acquired Vivitar 3500 with Canon DM/C module was 9.36 volts. Used both analog and digital meters. Didn't matter much whether I used the 10 volt or the 250 volt range. All meters over $10 are at least 20k ohms per volt sensitivity and even the 10 volt range was 200k ohms. So we can get as much as 1 milliamp if we pin the needle on the 10 volt range with a 200 volt input, so what? Converting a HV flash to LV is just a matter of opening the unit and adding a sub-dollar SCR.

G. Wong
Vancouver, BC Canada

Wed, 02 Apr 03 at 15:47:01

Thanks for sharing insights into using Canon G1/G2 with strobes. I'm surprized that even with a dedicated flash that my G2 will be limited to wide open (or tricked F8) aperature. If I understand this correctly, if I did buy a Canon 420EX flash, I will still be using it in manual mode for most daylight fill flash situations! Amazing.

Dan Wilkinson <dano@bigfoot.com>
Boulder, CO USA

Fri, 28 Mar 03 at 17:02:03

I meant *voltage* not resistance!!!


Bob Rogers <jwa@carol.net>
Anderson, SC USA

Fri, 28 Mar 03 at 17:01:11

I measured my Sunpak 36DX at 5.86 volts, about twice as high as the entry on the list. They seem to have a lot of variation, so someone thinking of using one should certainly measure their own unit.

It seems like it would be possible to put a small resistor in series with the flash shoe to bring the resistance down, no?

Thanks for the great service!


Bob Rogers <jwa@carol.net>
Anderson, SC USA

You mean, "voltage"? :)
Wed, 26 Mar 03 at 15:00:29

I love taking sports action photos for area high schools as a hobby. I purchased a Vivitar 285HV but am unfamiliar with the workings of the Vari-Power system. I normally use a Canon AE1 with 800 speed film. What settings should I use on the Vari-Power to get faster action freezing?

ANY HELP would be GREATLY appreciated.


J. Puckett <j.w.25801@lycos.com>
Beckley, WV USA

Fri, 21 Mar 03 at 02:30:16

Please help. I have a Nikon Coolpix 990 and wish to use the Sunpak PZ 5000 AF flash but read about the whole non-nikon flash trigger voltage issues with Nikon digital camera. Does anyone know reliably the trigger voltage of the Sunpak PZ5000 AF flash? Can it be safely used with the Coolpix 990? Thanks so much for your expertise assistance

LisaV <nojunks@email.com>
New York, NY USA

All I can recommend is to regularly check the list
Tue, 18 Mar 03 at 12:15:47

The trigger voltage of my (old, 1975) Metz 45CT1 is 227 Volt.
To use it with my Olympus C 3000 I have to use a slave-flash unit, with delay.

Peter Hadderingh <peter@pehaco.net>
Groningen, Netherlands

Sat, 15 Mar 03 at 20:19:24

I have a 1979-1980-ish Vivitar 285 and the trigger voltage measured 6.57 volts. I use it on an Olympus C-730 w/no problems. Called Olympus, they stated the C-730 has a filter so trigger voltage isn't a problem.

Bill Burns <bill-burns@msn.com>
Everett, WA USA

Sat, 15 Mar 03 at 18:06:39

Am looking at the Vivitar 730AF Flash for my G2. I have used the 420ex and am familiar with that model but has anyone used this Vivtar flash on a similar camera. It says it's okay to use with the G2 but wonder about the results. Anyone?

Dave Brown <brownclan@comcast.net>
Canton, MI USA

Thu, 13 Mar 03 at 19:56:19

I have a Vivatar 285 flash that I would like to use for a new Pentax Camera. When do I use different colors on the flash unit. Is there a preferable color to use?

Marc <marc.green@wcom.com>
New York, USA

The colors indicatred different desired f/stops. Just pick the f/stop you prefer for visual effect, and make sure that you're in the appropriate distance range to use that f/stop (indicated on the strobe).
Wed, 12 Mar 03 at 14:32:03

Is the ALBINAR 103 MDT the same flash as the one listed on your site under ALBINAR 100 MDT?
The ALBINAR 103 MDT has settings for NIKON, MINOLTA, and PENTAX 35mm film cameras.

pixrus <ws0000@yahoo.com>

I honestly don't know. Did you check w/the dealer or manufacturer?
Sun, 09 Mar 03 at 12:23:46

have I undersood you right about flashes on Canon G3 that an old flash (Sunpak 118) wich has only one conector at the botton is harmless to put on a Canon G3? ( since theres no + and minus...no current??)

Regards Peter

peter Lloyd <peter.lloyd@telia.com>
Gteborg, Sweden

Actually, all electronics need to have a current or no electrons will flow and nothing will happen. The current only flows during the moment of exposure — but the different electronic potentials between the two poles will be there, and is measured as the voltage.
Wed, 05 Mar 03 at 19:48:28

Measured a Agfatronic 240 B flash: 238 V DC between the both pins...

EJ Boeve <info@boeve.org>

Sun, 02 Mar 03 at 01:59:01

I have a g2 that I want to use with some "white lightning" studio strobes. I have a little hot shoe adapter that converts the hot shoe to a PC sync. Sometimes the stobes will fire using this set up and sometimes they won't... Any idea about what I am doing wrong? Do you think I have a short somewhere? (I put the camera on M mode and set the "shutter speed" to 60 and the aperture to 5.6.) When it works the results are great!!! I am just looking for some consistancy. I would love to rely on the G2 to check my lighting for medium format work. Thanks for your great site!

Holly <hollyhines@comcast.net>
franklin, tn USA

I'm guessing that it just plain slips out of the socket.
Fri, 28 Feb 03 at 17:19:50

Sunpak 322 = 178v
Vivitar 3500 = 9.8v
Vivitar 3700 = 9.8v
Vivtar 253 = 200v
Hitacon Mini = 190v


Mon, 24 Feb 03 at 06:02:23

I have FinePix-602Z and using my old "WOC" Flash (Trigger Voltage ~5V)
The Very strong Flash and working perfect in the manual mode.


Matt Dovner aka Conquer <matid@inbox.ru>
Tel-Aviv, Israel

Fri, 21 Feb 03 at 15:49:26

1) Have you the Nikon dedicated hot shoe flash contact design?
2) Any idea where or to whom to ask Alfon 787 AF Nikon/Minolta dedicated flash circuit design and manual?
Thnaks in advanced and congratulations for your site.

Csar <cpiacenza@antel.com.uy>
Montevideo, Uruguay

1. Nope.
2. Nope.
Let me know what you discover!
Fri, 21 Feb 03 at 02:37:00

I have the Canon G2, I just purchased it about 2 weeks ago, I also have a Conon EOS 5. My Huh is, why is the 540EZ speed light not mentioned with the G2? ONLY the 55oEX and other EX models, I also have the 540EZ I have used it with the G2 with great results, I do set every setting manualy. Is that a sales ploy? Push the new out with the old.

Regards R. C

Ray Charles <canon4737@netscape.net>
bronx, NY USA

Yep, it's called "planned obsolescence."
Tue, 18 Feb 03 at 16:28:50

Anyone please!!!
Not very good with computers....having problems with Cannon Zoombrowser software2.2.
Had it over a year to download from my Cannon s100 Powershot.
Had no problems.
This week it will not let me in. Keeps telling me that there is a problem at
c:\Program Files\cannon\zoombrowser EX\PROGRAM\My Database.zbd
I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling.
Makes no difference!
I would be very grateful for some help.

Eduardo Malvido

Eduardo malvido <eduardomalvido@yahoo.com>
Mexico D.F., DF MEXICO

Any changes to your OS? Maybe installing Windows XP?
Mon, 17 Feb 03 at 21:18:14

What brand of type II memory card would anyone recommend for a powershot G2? Looking for speed as fast as camera can write (no need to be faster). Thanks.

olyfive@msn.com <olyfive@msn.com>

I like my Lexars — and after an initial replacement the microdrives have served me well. The cards that I've received with new Canon cameras have seemed rather slow.
Sun, 16 Feb 03 at 17:45:30

Strobe Voltage, Vivitar 283, Ser. No. 2233409 (made in Japan): 8.5 volts. Works fine on Sony 717.

Harve Waff <waff@cyber-dyne.com>
Eugene, OR USA

Sun, 16 Feb 03 at 06:09:56

Using a Canon PowerShot G2 and everytime I do macros the coloring looks as though it is in sepia mode, but it is not. You can see colors but there is a "sepia" tint to the picture and I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. I have played with lighting etc. Any help for taking great macros with a g2 greatly appreciated. I take macros for jewelry etc for ebay. I am not an expert and can use some help. Thanks.

Carrie <cdelacey1@excite.com>
Seattle, wa USA

Are you sure the color balance is set manually?
Thu, 13 Feb 03 at 11:14:33

You are providing a great public service with your flash voltages page. I did pop off my flash one time before I managed to figure out that it wasn't a good idea. I hope I haven't ruined my brand new Oly C-5050! I tested my (China) Vivitar 283 at 8.5 Volts. I'd like to point out that the safe sync accessory that is sold by Olympus (at least as far as I can tell) reports to regulate the trigger voltage at 11.5 Volts. I assume that anything less should be safe for the camera, but there is really no confirming this. At any rate, I am proceeding with extreme caution. I wish the manufacturers provided better information on safe sync voltages!


Tom Cavaness <tcavaness@free.fr>
APO, AE Belgium

Wed, 12 Feb 03 at 14:32:44

Your flash trigger voltage page is wonderful !!!
I give my measurements: flash National PE3057, trigger voltage 10.44V positive (+ on center hot shoe)

Luigi <lseregni@libero.it>
milan, I italy

Wed, 12 Feb 03 at 04:04:51

Your flash trigger voltage page it's great! I would like to add my measurements:
Metz 36 C-2: < 6 Vcc
Woctron 250 PC Auto: < 5 Vcc

Both measures were taken with full charge batteries. I use these flashes with my Olympus E-10 digital SLR.

Have great shots!

Alex from Italy

Tue, 11 Feb 03 at 18:06:48

Excellent website, very informative. Keep up the excellent work.

Samantha Williams <willsamantha4@yahoo.com>
USA, none USA

Tue, 11 Feb 03 at 13:17:40

Anyone please!!!

Not very good with computers....having problems with Cannon Zoombrowser software2.2.

Had it over a year to download from my Cannon s100 Powershot. Had no problems.

This week it will not let me in. Keeps telling me that there is a problem at
c:\Program Files\cannon\zoombrowser EX\PROGRAM\My Database.zbd

I have tried uninstalling and reinstalling. Makes no difference!

I would be very grateful for some help.


Graham Summers

Graham Summers <grahamcs@candw.ky>
Georgetown, Grand Cayman

Mon, 10 Feb 03 at 02:13:51

I just purchased a Canon PowerShot G3 to replace my Olympus D600-L which is malfunctioning. Does anyone know if my Sunpak Auto144 PC external flash will work with my G3, or will only the Canon Speedlite series work?

Any assistance would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks so much,

Bill Tobin <wtobin@nexet.net>
Louisa, VA USA

Sun, 09 Feb 03 at 19:03:38

Using a Canon PowerShot G2 and everytime I do macros the coloring looks as though it is in sepia mode, but it is not. I have played with lighting etc. Any help for taking great macros with a g2 greatly appreciated. I take macros for jewelry etc for ebay. I am not an expert and can use some help. Thanks.

Carrie <cdelacey1@excite.com>
Seattle, WA USA

Sat, 08 Feb 03 at 06:34:57

Tested my 20+ y/o (and still working) Starblitz 3200BT-Twin-S trigger voltage and found it to be 64 volts. Getting a G3 in the next 2 weeks. Glad I came across your site and found out the problems with these older flashes before I put it on the G3. Now to find something similar to the Safe-Sync in OZ.

David Cunningham <spam_me_not_davidwc@optusnat.com.au>
Queensland Australia

Fri, 07 Feb 03 at 20:46:16

Hello Kevin. I've been wondering about that long low picture of Iolani Palace in your gallery. It seems to be very high resolution. It has a sort of classical "etched" quality that I like for that subject. I've printed it at 6.6 inches x 26 inches and even at that size it looks good. How can that be?? Can a single G2 shot be printed 26 inches long and still look good? Is that picture cropped from a single G2 shot -- or is it a mosaic stiched togeather? I would like to hear the story of that picture.

Tom Hanson <rosapark@aol.com>
Philadelphia, PA USA

Mon, 03 Feb 03 at 05:57:46

Dear Bjorke
Measuring instrument: APPA 93N digital multimeter with 10 M ohm input impedance
Strobes triggering cord voltage:
Metz 56-1: 211V
Nissin 360X: 10V
Tumax 988TWZ: 7.6V

Woo Fei Wing <woofw@netvigator.com>
Hong Kong, HKSAR

Sun, 02 Feb 03 at 06:05:23

Hey, I found your site this evening and it's wonderfully full of help & good links. I just got a Canon G2 and strobe lighting system (umbrellas etc.) with the Wein adapter for $40. I was glad to read about your details on the voltage and how the $40 saves me in potential problems. I do have a question about the LensMate adapter. What can I do with it? I want to get into portrait photography and I'm taking a class at a community college this month on digital photography, which I believe gets into Photoshop quite a bit. Will the LensMate help me in any other way? Is the Olympus A-200 Tele Lens a good deal at $85 and will this add to my new experience in digital photography? I think this is a telephoto lens. Thanks! Richard

Richard <ackermanfarm@yahoo.com>
Fort Collins, CO USA

Thu, 30 Jan 03 at 23:20:44

I have just measured the trigger voltage on an Agfatronic 320 CBS and found it to be 250 volts.
Unfortunately, I wasn't aware of the trigger voltage problem when I first tried the unit on my new G2. When I fitted the strobe, the flash symbol disappeared from the LCD on the camera and neither flash fired. Removing the strobe brought the camera back to normal operation but I am now not sure as to whether the hot-shoe contacts are still working. Can you tell me if there is any way of checking this out without going out and buying a 420ex strobe, which is something I am not in a position to do at this moment.
P.S. I have read the instruction manual from front to back and can not find any mention of this problem other than the fact that some strobes may not fire at all.
Any assistance would be gratefully received,
Dennis Morgan

Dennis Morgan <djmorgan@tiscali.co.uk>
Bridgend, Wales

Wed, 29 Jan 03 at 19:32:19

Your site has provided me with a lot of useful information.
Sadly there are a lot of broken links. Please ensure the links
work on a time to time basis. Great work keep it up.

bhaskar <vkbhaskar@yahoo.com>

Wed, 29 Jan 03 at 14:21:54

I really love your site!! Regards Susan M.

travel hotels <susan@no-spam-please.com>
fgh, jhk USA

Tue, 21 Jan 03 at 22:26:59

I've sold my EOS Elan and 650 on ebay, as well as some other things so I can get a new Canon G3.
I see that it's compatible with EX series Speelites, but not EZs. Will my old 430EZ work, or
do I need a new flash? Please help.


Ygar Gnops <ygar01@excite.com>
Tulsa, OK USA

Sat, 18 Jan 03 at 15:45:53

Vivitar 285 (1980-83ish) made in Japan reads 6.42 volts
and works well on my G2 as well as my Olympus OM1.


Fri, 17 Jan 03 at 06:10:51

What are these Jap boys playing at. They design two strobes,the 283 and 285.Both are physically the same almost the same specs yet the 283 trigger voltage is 300+ and the 285 is 8v. Do they say to themselves "got a day to spare,lets design a new circuit". You know what they say about the oriental mind

stan walker <stanwalkerpens@btopenworld.com>
liverpool, UK

Fri, 17 Jan 03 at 02:38:54

I measured my Vivitar 283 flashes trigger voltage at 241.3 volts. This is a 20+ year old flash with a serial number of 8397929.

Just for the record.


Brian Walton <bkwalton@bellsouth.net>
Lawrenceville, GA USA

Fri, 17 Jan 03 at 01:55:09

I measured my Minolta Auto 28 and got 43 volts (open circuit) with my digital voltmeter.
This is in contradiction to the 200 volts as measured by Wes Quigley. Maybe my flash is
of a newer production.

Gene West

Wed, 15 Jan 03 at 21:19:19

I measures a 30BCT4 at 165 volts! Note this is not a 30BCT4i. A sunpack Auto 36 FB measured at 15 volts.

Great website with useful information!

Paul Nelson <paul@confidential.com>
Rosemead, CA USA

Wed, 15 Jan 03 at 20:21:17

Unomat B14 Servo - 190 V
Agfatronic 383 CS - 4.0 V

Saint-Petersburg, Russia

Mon, 13 Jan 03 at 19:12:12

Metz 45CL-4 measured trigger volts at 15.87

jeffoldbean <jeffoldbean@hotmail.com>

Mon, 13 Jan 03 at 18:46:59

measured the trigger volts on my Starblitz 200M-Quick at 237v EEEEK.

jeffoldbean <jeffoldbean@hotmail.com>

Wed, 08 Jan 03 at 18:17:34

Nikon SB-80DX trigger voltage 4.23-4.29 vdc at full charge. Measured at 1/1 and 1/128 output settings.

Dave Tewksbury <dtewksbu@hamilton.edu>
Clinton, NY USA

Wed, 08 Jan 03 at 13:39:10

I have checked my old Philips P36CTL flash. I have measured 5.2V and it works well with my Nikon CP5000.

Greets, Bernd

Bernd Schumacher <bernd.bs@surfeu.de>

Sun, 05 Jan 03 at 12:39:03

reading the botzilla.com/photo/g1strobe.html article, i noticed the part about firing a slave strobe, sing a Canon G1. The problem that E-TTL always fires a pre-flash, can perhaps also be solved by using a slave flash like the Soligor DG-20 A (www.soligor.de). It can be set to skip 1, 2, or 3 pre-flashes, before it will fire.

Ron v.'t Hart <rmgvthart@wxs.nl>

Sun, 05 Jan 03 at 00:40:13

Just checked out my flash according to the instructions on the site. Here goes: Image CBD-30 (Sold by Japan Camera stores). I tested it at 2.9.

Ray Watson <ray@canadianphotography.ca>
Montreal, Canada

Tue, 31 Dec 02 at 20:17:52

Susan Doel at Lensmate is soon to start marketing a lens adapter for the G3. There are two models. One has 52mm threads on the front, the other has 58mm threads. I will be purchasing the 52mm one, as I have been impressed with the use of the 49mm adapter on my G1. I look forward to testing my lenses (Olympus B-300, A28, etc) with this adapter and reporting the results.

Susan Watling <swatling@netzero.net>

Tue, 24 Dec 02 at 17:34:02


Here is one to add to your list of Flash voltages of the various Flashers.
I recently bought a second hand SUNPAK Power Zoom 4000 AF for my NIKON Coolpix 995 camera.
After having measured the trigger voltage on the connector pins, while the flasher was "ON" and ready to "trigger", I knew it was a safe one to use in accordance with the NIKON specifications.

The measured voltage was never higher than 3,6V, so I would say; This one is more powerfull than the ones from the SB-xx series of NIKON and costs about half the price of a NIKON SB-xx flasher.
Because a NIKON COOLPIX camera does not have the right electronics to control the zoom and the IR measurement functions of the NIKON SB-xx(DX) flashers ( as I was told by a Nikon sales representative), the choice is easy: A SUNPAK Power Zoom 4000 AF does his job very well, when switched to TTL control. However also this Flasher does not give you the benefit of it's zoom feature, it still works fine on my NIKON COOLPIX 995 camera. In fact this should work on all coolpix 9xx camera's.

So resuming I would say; ADD this one to your safe list of flashers for the Nikon coolpics 9xx camera's.

I hope that a lot of your readers can take benefit of this experience.

With regards, Kees

Kees <dsm_c@hotmail.com>

Sun, 22 Dec 02 at 20:48:34

Just recently, I have picked up the low battery problem in my Canon Pro 90. I know the battery is fully charged but yet it keep blinking with LB (low battery) as soon I have taken couple of pictures. I did all the things recommended in the FAQ section about this problem yet to no avail. Greatly appreciated if anyone else that has experienced this problem and has another solution to rectify this problem.

Mark C.

Mark Cheng <mkc_cheng@hotmail.com>
Vancouver, USA

Tue, 17 Dec 02 at 18:47:36

Having been an enthusiastic amateur using SLR's up to Mamiya 6x7 and my darkroom, I have now 'discovered' the advantages of Digital using a Canon G1. My point: A basic rule at any camera club to which I belonged was "Always, always use a lens hood" I'm sure any 'serious' amateur/professional would agree. I haven't (a) been able to source a hood for the G1 and (b)seen this point covered on the forums. Anybody know if a hood is available for the G1,G2? I know the hood can only be fully effective at the wide end of the zoom but it really can improve quality (as does stopping down two stops from the open aperture)

leo mahon <leomahon@eircom.net>
Athlone, Ireland

Tue, 17 Dec 02 at 18:03:17

Check out http://www.fotofanatic.com its a cool photo contest.

Jason O'Meara <omearae@hotmail.com>

Sat, 14 Dec 02 at 07:18:30

Thanks for helpful info. I have a new Canon G4 and prevented to have it damaged with my old
Metz 40 CT 1 and Bauer E528B.
Both flashes have over 200 V measured! So I only can use it as secondary flash triggered by the internal.

Gerhard Silbermann <gerhard.silbermann@t-online.de>
Erlangen, Germany

Fri, 13 Dec 02 at 19:47:28

I just bought two Vivitar 285HV flashes and checked both using a Micronta (Radio Shack) digital multimeter. Both were a few mV under 8 V. Both are made in China.

Thanks for the web page on flash trigger voltages. I finally decided to get an external flash for my somewhat dated Kodak DC290 and was a bit concerned about the flash trigger voltage knowing that an old flash that I have was several hundred volts. I never measured it but was bit by it once when using it for a stop-action picture. I tried a 285HV on the DC290 and it works fine. (The other is a Christmas present for my daughter.)


Ken <sole@comcast.net>
Fort Wayne, IN USA

Sat, 07 Dec 02 at 11:29:59

>Guess it's not worth much to them, which is why now I'm shopping Fuji, Olympus, and Nikon<

you make some good points. i'm wondering what you went with instead of canon?


tom <tm3@REMOVEmindspring.com>
asheville, nc USA

Wed, 27 Nov 02 at 05:37:39

So I have received my Fuji S602 and have had the weekend to fiddle around with it. New to REAL photography, but I am so glad I finally dished out the money for this. I got it for a steal <$500 on Ebay (dont worry its new with US warranty), so the money I saved I used to buy the adapter lenses and a circular polarizer and uv filter. Also got a nice portable lightweight tripod and 128mb card. Ok well now I need to know more about the Flashes that are available for my camera. I know this site is for Canon (which I opted away from since super Macro shots are something I really am interested in) but I was hoping to get some expert feedback before I buy a flash. I know that Phoenix Makes a flash ($50 online) but I dont know how good it compares to a Canon flash or any others for that matter. I know you get what you pay for but I am looking for a bargain purchase since cash is tight for the holidays. Any suggestions or comments on the phoenix would be great.

BTW I love my camera so far. Makes the learning curve much faster by going digital. I have some great images so far but besides that I love the fact that I immediately see the results of my adjustments with the settings.... no waiting for the film to get developed.

Thanks in advance for your help

Paul Shank

Tue, 26 Nov 02 at 14:44:46

I just want to know what software and conecctions i have to make to use the c260 studio polariod to my pc. Thanks! I'll apreciate your comments.

Randall Chaves <Randymix2002@hotmail.com>
San Jose, Costa Rica

Mon, 25 Nov 02 at 05:28:09

I have tested my Metz 32 Z-2 with standard shoe, the voltage was 4.086V, which is safe for the DC.
The Leica CF flash voltage was 10~11V. And with Metz 32 Z-2 & Canon 420EX, I have found that;

1. The G2 was able to take pictures even the shutter speed had set between 1/250 to 1/1000s in M & Tv mode for high speed photo (Panansonic LC-5 too).

2. When using the Canon 420EX, the LEDs on the flash shown 28mm at wide (camera set at 34mm) & 70 at tele (camera set at 102mm). I do not know is this normal ( trying to find out).

Joe Lim <lyt9922f@singnet.com.sg>

Sun, 24 Nov 02 at 11:48:53

With my old Nikon camera (the days when built-in light meter was the only eletronic part in the camera), I always liked to use two flashes: a stronger flash like Metz 60CT to bounce from the ceiling and a small flash for direct light. I just use a "Y" splitter with the pc connection. It worked similar to a Metz 60CT4 flash.
Now with my setup: Nikon 8008 with Sunpak 555 + Photogenic PL1250 strobe (or other flashes for that matter). They will miss fire most of the time.
What was the problem?
I suspect it is the voltage difference or over the limit of the Nikon camera?
I wonder if a voltage regulator like Wein safe sync H will help.
If you have any insight or experience with this, please advice.

Ed Wong <J_Mail@swbell.net>
Houston, Tx USA

Sat, 23 Nov 02 at 05:46:20

Well.. not really a cry for help. Just a follow up on my previous cry.

I did email Canon (in Australia, because that is where I was), but no replies that I can remember.

I finally did pick up a CF card reader.

Just recently I picked up an IBM 1Gb Microdrive (with travelkit).
Great for laptops with PCMIA cards.
Not as great as it could be if your card reader does not support CFII.

So, first lession, get a CF card reader (USB)... its worth it!
Secondly, make sure its capable of CFII. I mean, c'mon, you just dished out for
the G2 (or G3), may as well through in the goodies by getting a CFII reader that can handle that
possibility of the big ass microdrive.

Now that I've experienced the magic of a hi res digital camera, I'd really be keen to get more of a truer SLR digital camera.. the kind that is a just a body, and I can plug in my own EOS lenses for telephoto, wide angle and even fisheye, if I wanted. Its all just a bit out of my price range at the moment. Oh, and I am aware of the accessory lenses that are available. I'll be getting thse in due course.


Reuben Helms <reubenhelms@hotmail.com>
London, UK

Fri, 22 Nov 02 at 00:57:27

I have a Metz 45 CL-4 and the battery pak will not charge. Can anyone help me with the power drainage of the flash unit as to buy a new power pac "down under" is est A$600.00. I am looking to make my own power pac.

Thanks for your help asap


Phillip <pjheydon@bigpond.com>
Sydney, NSW Australia

Sat, 16 Nov 02 at 15:36:48

The sync voltage on my Metz 36CT3 measured 26 volts on a DMM.

Eric Burke <eric@burke29.freeserve.co.uk>

Fri, 15 Nov 02 at 04:40:57

Hi I just got into digital photography, well to be honest photography as a whole, earlier today. Ok to be correct... A FUJI S602 is on its way by UPS as we speak. My question is what flash is the best value for this particular camera. I see that Fuji makes one for it ($20 online) but it looks to be a very poor flash. I would like a flash to handle everything I need and not screw up my camera electronically (see things about voltage on this site ... scares me to think my precious item could be destroyed by trying to just use an attachment on it). So if anyone could suggest a good, safe, and cheap flash for me to learn with I would be greatly indebted! Thanks in advance.


Paul <paulshank@hotmail.com>
Mt Pleasant, MI USA

Mon, 11 Nov 02 at 18:55:14

The Quantaray QTB 9500A was tested at 4.93 volts. This is a modular flash that can be used with a number of different cameras by changing the base module. Because the Quantray 7500 and 6500 models use the same base modules as the 9500, do you think they would have the voltage as the 9500?

george oswal <gpo@comcast.net>

Mon, 11 Nov 02 at 01:22:15

I was reading Kevin Bjorke's article on g1's f/8 trick http://www.botzilla.com/photo/g1faq.html. I tried the same thing on my g3 and found it still works on g3. On g3 turn on flash, use Tv mode and set shutter speed to 1/1600 or 1/2000, the camera will take picture at shutter speed of 1/250, max sync speed?, and aperture of f/8. If you select other shutter speed between 1/250 and 1/1600. The camera will choose aperture bewteen max aperture, ie. f2 at wide angle and f3 at tele and f/8. The higher the shutter speed, the smaller aperture. The camera fired the right amount of flash to correct expose the subject for all the test. I believe same thing is true for 420ex and 550ex attached to g3. As pointed out by Kevin, this trick can be used for macro work to enhance DOF. This essentially give photographer a way to be able to select DOF and still take advantage of e-ttl's auto flash. And a big plus for g3, the LCD will NOT go dark as it did on g1.

Interesting and unexpected.

Franklin <binli@yahoo.com>
Midtownusa, MD USA

Fri, 08 Nov 02 at 05:47:42

Sunpak Auto30SR has a sync voltage of 6.4 volt measured.

Mike Richter <mike.richter@team.telstra.com>
Sydney, NSW Australia

Mon, 04 Nov 02 at 00:22:44

Hi all!
I have a serious problem with an old National flash unit (it is a Panamagic c260) and I am searching for schemes and circuitry to fix it, but its a hard work to find some info about quite old equipment over the internet (almost 30 years!). Then, any hints or tips on how to find this information are welcome!

Maria Helena Truksa <mhtruksa@hotmail.com>
Sao Paulo, SP Brazil

Sun, 03 Nov 02 at 19:21:21


I use my flash pentax AF 200 T in auto mode with my G2.
It works well.

jice <jice46@ifrance>

Tue, 29 Oct 02 at 02:46:37

SUnpak 383 flash. Voltage across terminals is 6.75V ~ 7.0V depending on which ground terminal used (L or R).

hf cheung

Thu, 24 Oct 02 at 03:04:39

I measured the flash "Braun Ultrablitz 28M " with 220V and the flash "Metz 2034BC " with 207V.


Ernst ALBERT <ErnstAlbe@Yahoo.de>
Lippstadt, Germany

Fri, 18 Oct 02 at 20:17:29

Vivatar 283 tested two different flash units with both a bantam and quauntum battery sources and they both tested between 260V and 270V. The units could not be triggered with my Canon G2

Bill Rapf <Wrapf@aol.com>
Amherst, NH USA

Wed, 16 Oct 02 at 10:19:08

>Can you now comment on Phoenix D79-BZS Flash ?/?

Oh.. sorry please exhale !

First I must say that I have avoided using a flash all the years I've done my 35mm B&W photography so using one is NEW to me. That is... I'm no expert at it YET ! (GRIN) But since I've made the switch to digital, hey.. might as well explore even farther.

So far, I've found the D79-BZS to be able to do everything a flash should do. I was testing it indoors and outdoors, with some available light and also in the total darkness.

As an example of power, I had great lighting outdoors across a pool, in pool area lighting that was too dark to AF in, but the Phoenix set to telephoto threw more than enough light for the scene. It also covered the outside of a two story house that was in total darkness on another shot.

Then I shot frame filling faces indoors using the bounce and produced what my eye sees as a very nice exposure. I DO think I'll be getting one of the clip on bounce defusers for extra control in some cases, as you can't always depend on a good surface to bounce off of.

I'm sure I will get much better at using it, but so far it has worked very well for me (150 shots +or-). Batteries were still going strong BTW and unit was recycling VERY fast still.

Any shots that could have been better were MY fault as I was trying out various settings on manual mode on my Fuji S602z. I mostly allowed the camera to auto set the white balance, but I'm sure doing a custom WB before shooting would help a bunch. Manual mode is the way to go using the flash though since these flash units do not communicate with the camera.

I DID love the fact that it is also a slave flash and I could hold it over my head, or down low with the internal flash as a trigger. Also comes with a base so you could stand the unit off to the side or for backlight etc.

So far, I have no complaints. I'm sure that spending two or three times the money would get better unit but I would never do that.

I still like to work with available light whenever I can, and mine will no doubt be used more for a fill on slave setting.

Unfortunately, we will probably never hear a report from an expert/professional (that's not paid to say so) on the unit as it doesn't cost enough LOL

But then, I don't need to know any more, it works for me..


Thanks Tom!
Sun, 13 Oct 02 at 18:22:36

Hi: Have held my breath long enough !!!!!!!!!!!! LOL
Can you now comment on Pheonix D79-BZS Flash ?/?

Canada eh!

Dave <sillysixxx@aol.com>
Coquitlam, BC Canada

Thu, 10 Oct 02 at 15:30:14

If you switch on your G2 to shoot photos (not to playback) with the LCD display panel open and you have the power cord plugged in the welcome jingle seems to get interference... at least that is the case with my G2! Comments?

M Wakeford <michael.wakeford@skagerak.org>
Sandefjord, Norway

Thu, 10 Oct 02 at 00:34:36

Hi, to the guy with the noisy G2. I have read of this before. I read one girl retirned hers to the store and tried another G2 which did not make the noise. I listened in the store when I bought mine but it was so loud in there I heard nothing. Sure enough though, mine too makes this noise. It is most noticable when the lens retracts at power down. I would describe it as a dull chattering noise, definately not a grinding noise. It sounds like something is loose and vibrating. My camera preforms perfectly also. I have a feeling its a design flaw and is very common.


Dave <ballgame@sympatico.ca>

Thu, 03 Oct 02 at 19:48:47

Just a follow-up to my post on Sept 4th 2002 about the Phoenix D79-BZS unit.

I now have strobe in hand and trigger voltage is confirmed at 4 volts with fresh batteries.

BTW, seems to be good little unit. Bounce, Zoom & Swivel (on bracket) can also set it for Pre-flash or not. Even a nylon carry bag. Time/use will tell more....

Best to all,



Sun, 29 Sep 02 at 18:39:56

I measured with a multimeter the triggering voltage on a Braun 400M Logic with 7.6 volt.
I wonder whether I can connect it directly to my new Nikon Coolpix 4500. Anybody an idea?

Hartmut <hartmut.gruenhagen@web.de>
Celle, Germany

Fri, 20 Sep 02 at 10:25:07

My Canon G2, since purchasing in late May of this year, has made an intermittant "mechanical chattering" sound during the power cycle. It sounds as if the plastic lens barrel is dragging against the camera body as the lens extends and retracts. The sound is louder during "power down" and is amplified by the lens adapter. The chattering is louder than the normal motor and apurture sounds. I believe that the chattering has become louder but I may have just become more sensitive to the issue. Otherwise, the camera has performed flawlessly.

I have asked several local dealers and have received answers ranging from "no problem" to "live with it" to "send it in before the warranty expires" to "send it in now".

Robert H Cole <colero@attbi.com>
Pleasanton, CA USA

Mon, 16 Sep 02 at 00:22:20

The Nikon SB-80DX trigger voltage is only 1V. This new model is designed for digital cameras, so I guess that's not a surprise.

It works great on my Fuji 602, but it sure is expensive!

Paul Durant <durant@telusplanet.net>
Calgary, AB Canada

*sigh* another reason to step carefully before buying a D1000... (really want one, though)
Thu, 12 Sep 02 at 16:49:43

I'm new to photography, and therefore digital photography. My desire stems from a need to get photos on to my church web site in an easy and timely manner. As is so wisely stated in your web site somewhere, I am merely a Canon G2 owner, not a photographer.

My problem is light, not enough of it (in the church). I am obviously in need of a flash attachment (photographers I'm finding call them strobes). I've read virtually all of your photo related web site, especially all of the flash stuff.

I can't/don't want to afford a Speedlite and have been looking at the Quantaray PZ-1. After reading your site I'm still not sure about whether this particular model would be 'safe' and what would be the draw backs.

So, let me cut to the chase, can you speak directly to the case of a G2 and the PZ-1?

Tod Hegstrom <t_hegstrom@yahoo.com>
Phoenix, AZ USA

Not only is the info on the PZ-1 here, you can find out about "foreign" strobes on the G2 here
Sun, 08 Sep 02 at 15:16:12

Tested some new PROMASTER flash units for trigger voltage:

  • FT 1700 289 volts
  • FA 1000 258 volts
  • FM 600 196 Volts


Thanks for that info and the messages below!
Sun, 08 Sep 02 at 15:13:03

Didn't see it on the list so tested a new Fuji FLMX29 unit with fresh batteries for trigger voltage. 216 volts


Wed, 04 Sep 02 at 16:25:32

Finally got this Email answer to my trigger voltage question from "Phoenix" as I did not see them listed here, I thought I would post this. Hope it's of some help to someone..

From Phoenix Corp:

The D79-BZS uses a thyristor to trigger the flash tube, hence the voltage measure is about 6 V. However, the actually trigger voltage seen by the thyristor is about 3.5 V. You can use it without the preflash or with.

Customer Support
Phoenix Corporation of America


Wed, 04 Sep 02 at 04:31:18

I'm travelling around at the moment, with my G2 and laptop. Frequently, I like to download the photos off the camera and put them on the laptop (running Win2000).

Unfortunately, I had to uninstall Zoombrowser EX. But I thought, no worries, the camera will appear as a device in the Explorer, and I can just drag and drop the images and files. Well, no such luck. I can still get images, via Photoshop (TWAIN and all of that), but my movie files are stuck on the camera.

Does anyone know of an alternatives to Zoombrowser EX that will let me download the .avi files from the camera to the laptop?

Please reply to the email address.


Reuben Helms <reubenhelms@hotmail.com>
Brisbane, QLD Australia

I'm afraid I don't. Anyone?

Reuben, did you give a ring to Canon?

Mon, 02 Sep 02 at 22:00:17

This site has been tremendously helpful.

I just got the Powershot G2 and with the Wein (HSHS) Hot shoe to Hot Shoe Safe Sync I can use my elinchrom monoblocs and infrared sync. B+H catalog no. 990560.

Very happy over here.

Scott Kester <scott@king-platypus.com>
New York, NY USA

Wed, 28 Aug 02 at 14:02:13

Just tested the trigger voltage on a new Vivitar V2000 with fresh AAs and got 273 volts !
Seems to be even higher than what's on the "trigger voltage" chart.

BTW, thanks for all that info... we sure need it these days.

Also, what is the most trigger voltage I want my Fuji S602 to see ?

Having hard time finding a low end external flash for it..

Anyone know the trigger voltage for a Fuji FL MX29 flash unit ?

How about a Phoenix flash unit ? Any non dedicated units with low voltage and under $100 USD ?




Sun, 25 Aug 02 at 11:25:58


We have a cople of nigts with great firework during the 23rd Int. Firework Festival held in Scheveningen - Holland.

Please have a look ( http://www.pbase.com/pong38/230802) at some of the photo's I have made with my Canon G2.

Ron Steusfij <pong38@hotmail.com>
Den Haag, Netherlands

Mon, 19 Aug 02 at 19:15:42

I've read some experiences with the 420 and it looks like that the G2 and the 420 very well synchronize.
I was wondering if the feature of the 420 where it can narrow of widen the beam as you use the tele or wide angle functions of the camera also works on the G2.

Anyone a clou?


Peter Vroomen <renpv@xs4all.nl>
Roosendaal, Holland

Yes, at least on my 550EX....
Mon, 19 Aug 02 at 01:16:10

I also tested my Vivitar 285HV with fresh AA batteries and got 5.78 volts. I guess I'll give it a try on my new Nikon CP 5700 while holding my breath!

This site is a great source of info.

Robert Peltzman <Bopeltzman@aol.com>
Westlake Village, CA USA

Sounds pretty safe to me!
Fri, 16 Aug 02 at 16:25:05

I tested my working Canon Speedlite 533G and found the trigger voltageto be 4.89V.

Justin Kuo <kuo@world.std.com>
Brookline, MA USA

Sat, 10 Aug 02 at 22:02:16

I operate a Canon Powershot Pro90 IS. Great pictures, great use of lens. Disappointing news from Canon. I purchased a Canon 550EX flash for the purpose of using this flash as a slave(off camera). Canon has returned my email stating that the wireless transmitter ST-E2 will not function with a Pro 90.

Has anyone attempted or are they using a 550EX with a Pro90 and a ST-E2 wireless transmitter?

If so, please let me know.

David Fairfield <davidfairfield@gosfieldtel.com>
Cottam, Ont Canada

Sadly, this is a known behavior, reported right here on Botzilla
Sat, 29 Jun 02 at 16:19:55

I just discovered your site and wanted to see if other Canon users have noted a color "interpretation" problem with their G1. My G1 is a gem. Under most circumstances it is a miracle of modern technology and meets all my amateurish photo needs. However, my G1 goes completely bonkers when the array is exposed to a brilliant magenta color. There seems to be a certain red frequency that drives the color interpretation nuts. The first effext I noticed was blooming. Then, as I tried different reds, I noticed that it simply will not reproduce certain of them, displaying an off shade that it chooses to represent anything it can't master. Weird.

I chose the Canon digital camera because I have used Canon glass cameras since the early 60's. I have found that NOTHING captures the essence of human skin as well as the Canon optical system. I tried Nikon, Minolta, etc., but no one comes as close to true color reproduction as Canon. Naturally, I was mystified about the problems I've experienced with my G1 color rendition.

Oh. As a by-the-way, I have many years experience with the design of military Infrared and UV real-time imaging systems. I do suspect that the problem is related to the array material and it sensitivity to certain wavelengths.

Richard Walker <ninesecdick@earthlink.net>
Riverside, CA USA

One problem, recently pointed out to me by my friend Jawed Ashraf, is that digicams often respond in unusual way to certain colors not because of the visible portion of the color, but because of infrared. The reaction is particularly noticeable with synthetic fabrics like, say, soccer uniforms. The extra IR gets incorrectly interpreted and interpolated-into the resultant colors. A nasty problem!
Fri, 28 Jun 02 at 12:42:22

After my first G2 had the 'stuck controls' syndrome right out of the box, I can gladly report I have received a replacement G2 that works just fine. The next thing was to check if the so-called f/8 trick worked with my 420EX flash. What I found was that in Tv mode if I chose 1/500th sec it would result in f/2, then at 1/640th sec results in f/2.8, then at 1/800th sec results in f/4 and finally 1/1000th sec in f/8. In all cases the ACTUAL shutter speed stayed constant at 1/250th sec. There are no sync problems at that speed with the 420EX. So it is simply a matter of varying the 'shutter speed' (which it doesn't)to set the f/stop from f/2 to f/8. Obviously the E-TTL adjusts the output and at f/8 I was able to take flash photos at greater distance than 6 metres (not bounce). No problem with depth-of-field, which I can now control.

Joe Rasmussen <joe@vacuumstate.com>
SYDNEY, NSW Australia

Yup, it does indeed look like they have improved the flash handling in the G2 a great deal over the G1.
Fri, 21 Jun 02 at 03:16:16

For some really useful gizmos for the G1 and G2 cameras, come to my site: http://www.rogerhayman.com Roger Hayman

Roger Hayman <rogerhayman@xtra.co.nz>
Wellington, NZ

The "Optical remote assistant" is clever wish I though of it! :)
Fri, 21 Jun 02 at 03:15:00

I tried to access the g1strobe.html page but only got a blank page. I am using Netscape Communicator 4.73 with MacOS 9.1.

Otherwise it is a great site, thank you. Roger Hayman

Roger Hayman <rogerhayman@xtra.co.nz>
Wellington, NZ

Must have been a momentary server glitch! No recognizable problems here, and I use Macs too.
Thu, 20 Jun 02 at 12:45:18

I have today just bought a G2 - took it home and inserted battery and charged it up. But when I turned it ON I was greeted with a Set Date/Time screen, and found that ALL rear controls are completely frozen. This G2 is totally inoperable. Needless to say I am NOT HAPPY! Now I've found that others have recently had the same problem, came across this: http://photography-on-the.net/forum/viewtopic.php?TopicID=3051 "Stuck Controls"

There are others I could point to.

It looks like there is a bad batch of G2's out there. I noticed as well that the latest firmware was, according to Canon's own site, released 19th April. Could it be a coincidence that the faulty G2's have appeared since then? If it is, do NOT upgrade your firmware until this is sorted out. Even of more concern is that Canon has not seen fit to recognize there is a problem?

Have anyone here experienced this? It seems we are talking very recently made and bought G2's.

Joe Rasmussen <joe@vacuumstate.com>

Wed, 19 Jun 02 at 09:13:52

For some reason, both "iPhoto" and "Image Capture" apps in Mac OS X change the filenames from the Canon Pro90 IS format XXX-XXXX_IMG.JPG to IMG_XXXX.JPG. Is there anything I can do to keep the original filenames as the camera creates them? Scott

Scott Rankin <scottrankin@mac.com>

Tue, 18 Jun 02 at 12:27:08

Canon's flashlight 160E and 200E can also be used on the PowerShot G1. A special fix in the firmware version has been made for these flashlights. Triggering voltage is unknown to me but they must be below the required 6V. The official text in the firmware path is : "Speedlites 160E/ 200E will now flash when mounted on the PowerShot G1. But, as they are not EX-series Speedlites, they will fire at full strength. (Automatic flash exposure with the PowerShot G1 is only possible using the built-in flash or an EX-series Speedlite.)"

emklap <emklap@hotmail.com>

Thu, 13 Jun 02 at 12:43:31

Hi, I have an Metz 45 CT4-Flash. Can use it with my G2? Thanx for help. Katja

Katja <mail@dynamik-im-bild.de>
D Sachsen

Look here
Mon, 10 Jun 02 at 19:49:38

Thanks for your very useful page, which I came upon by accident reading posts on the DP Review message list for the G2, only after having used my old Sunpak 422D on my new Canon G2 for several shots. I tested the trigger voltage using your method, and found it to vary between 5.0v and 5.5v--to my great relief. Not sure that applies to all 422D's, but that's what mine measures, using four 1.5v lithium batteries and the NE-1D shoe.

Richard Khanlian rckhan@aol.com

Richard Khanlian <rckhan@aol.com>
Santa Fe, NM USA

Mon, 10 Jun 02 at 14:05:13

I purchased a Sigma EF-500 Super flash made for the canon....it does not work with the Pro90IS at all....After I bought it I read at this site, that the Canon flashes don't work with it either. I called Sigma and they informed me it probably would not work with the Pro90, and it was primarily built for SLRs.I called Canon and they said the 420ex and the 550ex will work with thew Pro 90.I told them that I saw comments, from very unhappy Pro90 owners,that neither of their flashes worked with it. Their answer was the cameras were most likely damaged by using the wrong flash,and would have to be sent back for repair.I hope that the company I bought the flash from will let me return it.....Frank

Frank Colaguori <colag@hotmail.com>
west long branch, nj USA

Sun, 09 Jun 02 at 01:37:01

Boy! Am I glad your site exists! I am soon to take possession of an Elan II bought via eBay and have flash guns (strobe for you Yanks) which would have fried the flash trigger circuit. I will build the opt-isolated trigger described in the 'Strobe FAQ' reached via your link. In return, here are the voltages measured on my three Metz flash units:

  • Metz 202 --> 200 volt !!!!
  • Metz 402 --> 190 volt !!
  • Metz 402 --> 202 volt !!!

I have other el cheapo units which I sometimes use to remote-trigger the other units in a studio-like setup but your readers are unlikely to get hold of these exact flash guns so I haven't listed them.
Thanks for saving my bacon!

Peter Sanders <peter@blackforest.cable.nu>
Melbourne, Australia

Fri, 31 May 02 at 13:00:31

I checked a new Vivitar 285HV with Quest rechargable batteries and got 13.31 volts. I have burnt the sync out of two Pentax AF bodies in the last year. I shoot mostly on beach with flash fill. I solved the problem by buy a Nikon FM2 and a Fuji 670 for my flash work. These cameras show no problems and it fun to tell the camera what to do for a change. I use a Sun ringlight on a Fuji 6900 digital camera. So far no problems This is a wonderful site. This is info that needs to get to the public.Thanks for all the effort...... Marshall Thurman , Big M to my friends

Marshall Thurman <marsthurman@earthlink.net>
Nokomis, FL USA

Wed, 29 May 02 at 11:55:39

Hi Kevin, thank you for so much useful information about Canon G1 and G2. If I have read this before I got the camera I would wait another year for better digital camera at reasonable price. One question: with your spiritual connection to Edward Weston what is so important about flash? Thank you again, Roman

Roman Szechter <s.r.szechter@worldnet.att.net>
Lawrence, NY USA

Tue, 28 May 02 at 18:54:39

I read with the highest interest the voltages measured on the above mentionned unit. Almost had a heart attack! 300 volts! Okay, I am not using an EOS, but a Minolta X-700 which has TTL flash control and so on and it seems that the Minolta 280PX dedicated to that particular body measured 1.8 volts only. Well, I checked my Philips P36TLS, with a Beckman Industrial DM27XL digital meter, here are the results:

  1. with 4 Ni-Cads AA, measuring 1.26 volts each, the voltage at the hotshoe reached 5.04 volts after about 3 minutes. (I could not wait much more because that flash turns itself off after some time.
  2. Not satisfied, I put 4 fresh zinc-carbon AA batteries, known to have a higher voltage than a Ni-Cad while new. I then discharged the flash and let it charge again. Each AA measured 1.672 volts, and the measured voltage at the hotshoe, after 3 minutes again, was 5.64 volts.
Thus, in the worst case, voltage is under 6 volts, which should be okay for any camera.
By the way, I am looking for instructions as how to set that flash on auto mode and select the proper aperture and range. If someone has info, please drop me a line at jesl1905@yahoo.ca Regards.

J.E. St-Laurent <jesl1905@yahoo.ca>
Montreal, QC Canada

Sat, 25 May 02 at 20:38:28

I recently purchased a Canon G2, I noticed in the AV mode that the aperture shows in the LCD but not the shutter speed. If I hit the AE lock button, the shutter speed appears.
Is there a way to get the aperture and shutter speed to show in AV mode?
Of course in manual mode it shows both settings.

Ted Wilcox <tedphoto1@aol.com>

Thu, 23 May 02 at 23:39:50

Re Trigger Voltage tests - I just checked a VERY old Vivitar 285 load with freshly charged NiMH batteries and the shoe voltage was a consistent 7.4 - 7.5 volts. Seems to work well on my Canon G2.

Taz Maniac

Tue, 14 May 02 at 15:32:12

Considering your advice (http://www.botzilla.com/photo/g1strobe.html) I bought the Wein safe-sync hot shoe mounted high voltage sync regulator. (Thats the one that mounts on the hot-shoe mount and has a pc sync chord output in front. PROBLEM! Not only does it not work (it doesn't trigger the flash system I have it conected to), my camera(pro 90 IS)makes a high pitched sound when I mount the unit on the hot shoe (strange huh). Has anyone else had this problem? I suggest you either remove your advice to buy this product for these cameras OR tell me what dumb thing I'm doing wrong! Great site, by the way, and THANKS!

Aaron Whiting <aaronwhiting77@hotmail.com>
Snowflake, AZ USA

Wed, 08 May 02 at 01:29:12

I own a Canon Speedlite 577G (potato masher)that I use with my half dozen 70s and 80s Canon cameras. I love it, and it is spectacularly versatile and nearly foolproof with my vintage 35mm equipment.
I would like to buy a Canon G1, but do not know if the 577G is compatible with it. I do not have the test equipment or talent to check the trigger voltage of the unit.
Has someone done a test on the 577G to determine the trigger voltage? I will be really disappointed if I can't use the 577G with the G1 and will go with a much less versatile and less expensive (cheap)digital camera if I can't.

Richard Crisafulli <basecomm@citlink.net>
Algood, TN USA

Chances are you'll be fine using this unit, since it matches the other FD-series gear, which is also okay
Wed, 01 May 02 at 13:40:31

I have a Starblitz D320cp thyristor and lack guide numbers for it. This is a portable flash unit that works well, however, I'm having problems at even guessing its output. Any advice anyone?

Stephen Andersen <narragansett2002@yahoo.com>
Grand Canyon, AZ USA

Thu, 18 Apr 02 at 12:55:11

I tried the f/8 Flash trick on my Pro90. It doesn't work. The camera sets the shutter to 1/250 and the aperture to 4.0 every time. My camera has the firmware update . Could this have changed things?

Steve Wilkinson <steven.wilkinson@bigpond.com>
Perth, WA Australia

Sun, 31 Mar 02 at 05:45:06

In reference to http://www.botzilla.com/house/photo/strobeVolts.html the "Strobe Trigger Voltages" page:
I have some Data to add:

  • Sunpak Auto 422D Thyristor = 11.87vdc
  • Promatic FTD 4000 = 6.16vdc
  • Vivitar Auto Thyristor 2800 = 146.7vdc (verifying data already in the table)

(It would also be extremely helpful if you were to add general flash "Guide Numbers" (flash to subject ratios) to your table...)

Very good work!
Best regards Tom Deluca

Tom Deluca <tomdl3@hotmail.com>
ca USA

Actually, not all strobes even have Guide Numbers
Sat, 23 Mar 02 at 18:54:45

A solution in the forum said "use an external video monitor as a viewfinder" to help focus the G1. Please tell me how this is done. Is it practical in the field?

Lavon Wiseman <lwiseman@attbi.com>
Stockton, ca USA

Fri, 22 Mar 02 at 01:56:40

Please change the "colors of the threads" on this site!! The red lettering is very, very hard on the eyes when reading and the background colors does not help. You will have to goto colors that are comfortable and easier to read. I have a PowerShot G2. I like reading the various comments but I can only read a few due to your sites difficult color (clash) combinations. One would think that a "photographer" should know the affects colors can have on the eyes. Please take this as a constructive criticism. I like coming here, but I can not stay too long becase it hurts my eyes to try to read "red".
Sincerely, Larry Sr.

Larry Mercadel Sr. <lmercsr@hotmail.com>
Austin, TX USA

Okay, I'm confused. Red lettering? The lettering has always been WHITE on a dark background. Is your browser okay? How about your monitor gamma and color balance? - KB
Sun, 17 Mar 02 at 22:13:47

Okay, so I'm still confused. After going over your website it appears the G1 is fully capable of utilizing external flashes including studio strobes, yet user responses in the Canon FAQ on Digital Camera Review indicate there is a 4-5 stop diffence between what a flash meter reads and what the G1 exposes. Some users even go as far as saying that it won't work.
I would very much like to purchase a G1, however, I need to be able to reliably use it like a polaroid back to 'proof' lighting configurations for portraits and commercial shots. I own a host of EOS 35mm equipment which will be used for the finished product.
So, I guess the questions remain - Will the G1 work with monolights (White Lightnings) and will I be able to acheive properly exposed pictures using the readings from my Sekonic meter? Shouldn't f8 @125 be the same on my meter, my EOS3 and a G1.
I need help - can you tell?! Any light you can shed on this subject would be GREATLY appreciated!!
Thanks, Bob Biess

Bob Biess <bbiess@yahoo.com>
Dearborn, MI USA

An exposure is an exposure, though any digicam will have its own characteristics, just as shooting Kodachrome is different from shooting Fuji NPH. Practice and tune your work to get the sorts of predicatable results you like.
Thu, 14 Mar 02 at 01:55:27

Hi-- I received a Canon PowerShot G1 in December 2001, and have yet to find a way to attach it to my Windows Me system. The computer seizes up every time I attach the USB cable. Then I have to use the startup disk and system restore to get going again. I've tried to use the Canon driver update, but it seems that windows just doesn't recognize the hardware. Has anyone else had -- and solved -- this or a similar problem?
Many thanks for this site!

Don Summerhayes <dsummer@yorku.ca>
Toronto, ON Canada

Wed, 13 Mar 02 at 22:44:50

I can't thank you enough. I might have fried my new G2. My 70's era Vivitar 283 (Japan S#:6033673) measured in at a range of 150-250 volts - I guess that's where the batteries have been going all these years! My measurements were made usng a Micronta digital multimeter (Radio Shack model 22-193) once the flash had fully charged (blinking ready light). I guess my 283 is destined to spend it's (already long) life with it's age-old companion - my Canon FTBn. BTW... Great site! An incredible source of G1/G2 info and techniques. Thank you, thank you, thank you! - jeff

Jeff Pereira <execinsight@earthlink.net>

Wed, 13 Mar 02 at 21:30:56

The G1's f8 flash trick definitely works on the G2. However, you can also use Av mode, set at f8, and the flash works as close as you like, on auto, so the trick is not really necessary.

Nigel Puttick <nigel@astronomer.freeserve.co.uk>

Mon, 04 Mar 02 at 06:25:31

Thanks for your most helpful pages. The information regarding flash units was invaluable, particularly in preventing me from zapping my brand new G2 with an incompatible flash unit. I have an old Toshiba ES-30 which I'd wanted to use but following your instructions revealed 15 volts on the terminals. Oh well, that's life!

Ken Hardy <k.hardy@shef.ac.uk>
Sheffield, UK

Sat, 02 Mar 02 at 17:26:20

Thanks for the flash voltage info. Glad I didn't fry a camera before learning about this. I tested my Vivitar 283 marked "Made in Korea" and found the flash trigger voltage fluctuated between 8 volts and 12 volts DC at one second intervals. Used a small Radio Shack digital multimeter, (PN#22-169).

Jon A <jon1997@hotmail.com>
Brooklyn, NY USA

Sat, 02 Mar 02 at 09:31:26

yashica cs-202 flash voltage 11.00v national pe-205 flash voltage 155.00v !!!!!

Mick Flynn <mick@solpics.com>

Wed, 20 Feb 02 at 23:30:26

Re Voltage of Vivitar 285:
I am not sure I tested the voltage properly on these units. I simply took the negative lead from my digital meter, held it on the side of the pc cord, and touched the red (positive) lead to the centre pin on the bottom of the hot shoe.
All 285 HV's...flash # 1 read 33, the second flash red 20, and the third flash unit read 8.3.
Firstly, could someone let me know if I did this correctly...and secondly, why would 3 different units read so far apart. I have an Olympus 2100, and an Olympus E-10, and seem to be confused as to whether or not any of these are appropriate for these cameras.

Dave <lumber1@atcon.com>

Tue, 19 Feb 02 at 23:33:35

You mentioned that there were inexpensive little strobe slaves made in china. Where can they be found. Wein gets top dollar for everything! Ugh, what an expensive hobby. I forgot, this is a no whine zone! Thanks for the informative site that saved me. I use a sunpak auto 144pc flash for my g1 as the trigger voltage measures 5.7 volts. Nice unit.

Jeff B. <carpetinspector@mindspring.com>
Marietta, Ga. USA

Fri, 15 Feb 02 at 18:50:16

Hi together, her comes something negative about the software for the "PowerShotG1"
Im asking myself, why nobody has realised yet, that the CANON "ZoomBrowserEX" has the following, great disadvantage: This program doesnt display the Thumbnail from a "AVI"-Movie that hasnt been downloaded directly from the Kamera through the ZoomBrowserEx itself. Didnt you ever have been aware of this stupid handicap? Even if I "shift" (with the "Windows Explorer") a AVI-Movie out of a ZoomBrowser-Folder to an other Folder which isnt part of the ZommBrowser-Library, and "shift" back again, there occurs the same effect: no more thumbnail is shown of this Movie. Unbelieveable! Okay, what can I do, to bring the Thumbnail of a AVI-Movie from "extern" back? Who has a answer for this question? Please tell me, how to solve this problem.... Im waiting. Thanks. Bye, yours Alexander

Alexander Mikas <alexander_mikas@hotmail.com>
gttingen, Germany

Sat, 09 Feb 02 at 17:22:07

I'm trying to adapt a Canon Elan 7 to work with a Norman Studio flash system. I have a hotshoe pc adapter that works fine with my Sunpak 522 but with the Norman system, I depress the shutter release and the LED goes blank (the battery symbol flashes like a dead battery). I depress the shutter release again and the LED comes back on but nothing flashed. The Elan 7 seems to work ok with other flash units so I don't think I 'fried' anything. I visited a couple of camera shops with my situation but all the sales help I've talked to didn't seem to understand what the problem would be. Where do I go from here??

George Bulthuis <gbulthuis@hotmail.com>
Holland, MI USA

Wed, 06 Feb 02 at 23:36:39

I tested a sunpak 522 as per your directions to measure trigger voltages. With the sync cord in the flash, I measure with a digital multi-meter at the other end of the plug-the one that would fit into the pc socket of your camera. I measured the voltage at 22.1.

Ted Mishima <xmishx@hotmail.com>
Portland, OR USA

Wed, 06 Feb 02 at 19:14:59

Please I need the manual of the flash Sigma EF 430 MA or similary, for tihs depend my future in the photo and i believe, i have much apport for this area in this world. For tour response please send the manual to:
email: tempestades@hotmail.com fax: 56-2-2316700
Thank you for your contribution!, and excuses me for my english.
Marcelo Vergara S. Santiago de Chile South America

Marcelo Vergara <tempestades@hotmail.com>
Santiago, Chile

Sun, 03 Feb 02 at 22:24:31

Hi, Since nobody has posted Canon EX flash voltage readings , here it comes : 220EX - 4.22v , 380EX - 4.15v. BTW there is a typo error in the flash voltage list on this site. The entry under Metz 40MZ3-2 @ 4.74v should be 40MZ-2. Regards

Benny Khaw <bennykhaw@hotmail.com>
Singapore, Singapore

Tue, 29 Jan 02 at 19:17:29

Hello! I was wondering if you have any tipp on how to take better pictures with my G1 when it comes objects that are in color red (255,0,0) or that are close to it. You can see several shots on my webpage where the red turned into SOLID magenta, and as a result also resulted in reduced or NO details where it is magenta.
Do you think, that it is normal to get results like this from the G1 that costed me nearly $900 in November of 2000, meanwhile a cheesy Kodak DC200plus (4 years old) can make perfect shots of the same red objects without the touch of magenta at all. I am curious to hear your answer, opinion and hints if you have any. I red your FAQs on G1, but couldn't found any reference to this RED<turnsinto>MAGENTA problem. (infringing is a different problem, I believe) Sincerely, Geza

Geza Levai <geza@pumi.org>
Reseda, CA USA

Mon, 28 Jan 02 at 16:04:14

When I bought my G-1 last year I read and agonized over whether or not to use a third party strobe on it. -I measured the voltage on my Sunpak 383 super ... 7.2 -I e-mailed sunpak ... they said it should work fine -I read the G-1 manual ... only said that "high voltage flashes might not work properly"
I have made about 200 exposures with the Sunpak 383 super ... no problems ... I don't worry about it anymore! joe

Joe Templeton <templetons@hotmail.com>
Gallatin, TN USA

Thu, 24 Jan 02 at 04:27:34

Here are some trigger voltages:
Bowens Monolite 400 (old) 170 V Hensel Flash 2-channel IR trigger 17 V Metz 45CL4 14 V Starblitz 3600 BTZ Twin 170 V Minolta Auto 132 PX 4,7 V Starblitz 16 M slave 170 V Nikon SB-15 1,55 V
I mailed to Metz to ask their opinion of connecting Metz 45CL4 to Canon Powershot G2 and here are their answers:

A suitable adapter dedicated to the camera Canon G2 is in preparation and will be launched on the marcket approximately in april this year.

Unfortunately, any further details like flash features etc. are still unknown in this matter. Until the new adapter is coming, the flash unit Metz 45CL-4 can be used in automatic flash mode on your camera G2. For that, the flash unit has to be connected by use of a sync cable called 45-54 and the camera has to left the program working in manual mode.

With best regards

M E T Z - W E R K E
Technical support
Mr. Goeschel

Teemu Virtanen

teemu virtanen <teemu.virtanen@ytv.fi>
Helsinki, Finland

Mon, 21 Jan 02 at 08:39:46

After speaking to Quantum Instruments about using their T2 flash with the Canon EOS D30 I was told it was OK. The triggering voltage for the T2 flash units is 8 voltage according the Quantum tech support. Although the D30 has a recommended voltage of 6 volts Quantum maintains that the low amperage on the T2 would not cause any problems on any of the EOS cameras using a direct pc connecting cable.

Joel <figtrees@hotmail.com>
Wayne, NJ USA

Mon, 21 Jan 02 at 04:00:16

Strobe Trigger Voltage: Metz 45CL-4 with SCA312RL (old handheld flash, fo use with my EOS) Auto, f8: over 16.85 V TTL: 16.85 V Manual: 16.88 V
Figured that they're all the same. Can't be used on my G2.

Lee Phek Thong <phekthong@yahoo.com.sg>
Singapore, Singapore

Fri, 11 Jan 02 at 15:11:33

Jan 11,2002 I had a problem using my G1 with a studio setup (overexposure). I have found that when in manual mode, the F/stop set will give the expected exposure, when the shutter speed is less than 1/30 sec. Sig

Sig Nephew <sigandfran@yahoo.com>
Orlando, Fl USA

Fri, 11 Jan 02 at 14:04:53

I have three strobes, Nikon Speedlight SB-16, National PE-3550 and Popular 606 (very old). I measured by digital multimeter: - Nikon Speedlight SB-16 4.14 volts - National PE-3550 32 volts - Popular 606 61 - 71 volts
Nikon is OK, National and Popular trigger voltages are too high..

Harry Malmelin <malme@saunalahti.fi>
Helsinki, Finland

Thu, 10 Jan 02 at 15:42:56

Just to verify, the three readings on flash units that I posted were serious and measured from the ground contact on the side of the shoe to the center pin; though the method/conditions were not.
I took my VOM and four fresh alkaline batteries to my friendly used camera store today and checked out four of the flashes they had for sale. Two were way overvoltage, one was very near 6vdc and the fourth, which I purchased, was way under.
Olympus T-20 2.6 vdc
Since this is way out of line with the previous measurement posted for the same unit, I replaced the batteries with a different brand and got the same results. This leads me to believe that the manufacturer(s) do not put much stock in their components and purchase the cheapest available at the time, thus resulting in marked differences in production runs. This added to the difference in usage in used units makes it reasonable to do as I did and make your measurement prior to purchase of any used unit.

Greg Clark <warpo@dreamscape.com>
Camillus, NY USA

Sat, 05 Jan 02 at 22:35:22

Figured that I would check the other flashes while I was at it-
Phoenix BIF 82C 6.o (six) vdc
Soligor 30DA 5.25 (five and one quarter) vdc
trigger voltages
all measured with an antique Qugami Supra Deluxe Combination Volt-Ohm-Meter/Screen Door Tensioner with questionable batteries at twilight - 31 degrees F outdoor/68.4 degrees F indoor under 2000 watts of 3200 degree halogen lighting which were turned off at the time.
sorry, just had to take the jab :-))

Greg Clark <warpo@dreamscape.com>
Camillus, NY USA

Sat, 05 Jan 02 at 22:04:46

Just measured the trigger voltage on my Starblitz 3600BTZ Twin with unit on high power setting and both main and fill flash turned on and it came to one hundred and fifty (150) vdc. Guess this isn't one to use on digital, huh ?

Greg Clark <warpo@dreamscape.com>
Camillus, NY USA

Sat, 05 Jan 02 at 00:24:35

I measured My Minolta Auto 320X at 5.4-8.6 volts, measured across the terminals with a fully charged flash, using a hi end Caterpillar digital multimeter.

Ian H <ihamilton@telus.net>
Langley, BC

Sun, 30 Dec 01 at 11:06:16

I am a new owner of a Canon G2. I hadn't thought much about NOT using my Vivitar 283 flash until coming across your site. I measured 175V on the flash terminals whilst the flash was charging. I don't think I'll try using this flash with my new camera. Thanks for your web page. David

D Elias <delias@bigpond.net.au>
Perth, WA Australia

Thu, 27 Dec 01 at 01:19:22

Thank You So Much for your table on flash trigger voltages. it was a great help. Using your outlined method I tested my Sigma Super EF-430 and got a trigger voltage of 4.74. My Vivitar zoom 2500 gave me a trigger voltage of 13.10 and finally my 3 Photogenic PL 1250's gave me an avg. of 10.52 trigger volts.
I used a Radio Shack Micronta 22-167 digital multimeter set on auto range for DC voltage.
Thanks Again, Dennis

Dennis Deblois <dennisd@intldata.com>

Tue, 25 Dec 01 at 09:32:33

Came across a Soligor MZ-400AF(C) zoom flash on the Christmas Eve and wanting to test it on my G1 measured the trigger voltage to be a little over four volts. Unfortunately I didn't have reporting it here in mind so didn't take note of the exact result. It was powered by used alkalines and was set to high.

Jouni Pekkanen
Helsinki, Finland

Sun, 16 Dec 01 at 00:18:30

I just tested my Vivitar 3900 trigger voltage and it is 9.9 volts. I have used it with my Fuji 6900 Z and it works fine. I don't know about using it again because it exceeds the 6 Volt minimum.

Larry Wilson <mittomus@home.com>
Tulsa, Ok USA

Mon, 10 Dec 01 at 11:15:20

I just measured my new Centon FG20 flash from Jessops, its 275 volts.

Mike Johnson <mikejohnson@csi.com>
London, UK

Fri, 07 Dec 01 at 14:52:50

G1, 550EX, using the ST-E2: Just a couple of times, I've noticed the 550EX fire full power with the G1 in <P> mode, which nearly blinded me, my wife, and new baby, in a self portrait. Repeating exposures were fine. Perhaps dirty contacts...
And just last night, taking picture of baby and Elmo, the ST-E2 hung. You know, software hang. I'm assuming there was a continual serial data stream from the G1 -- the ST-E2 couldn't 'test' fire the 550EX, although the channel 1-4 button did work. Power cycling the G1 solved the problem.
Has anyone else seen these problems?
And what's with over exposure of the built-in flash with anything over ISO50, I have to use the flash exposure compensation each time I want faster film speed. Software -- I guess I need another firmware upgrade!

Piers <piers@austin.vnet.ibm.com>
Austin, TX USA

Fri, 07 Dec 01 at 13:33:02

I have measured my minolta 3500xi flash: it was 1.92 V (On your page it is 1.88 V) --> OK

Paul Pauwels <gvdppw@hotmail.com>
Eeklo, Belgium

Fri, 07 Dec 01 at 13:32:51

I have measured my minolta 3500xi flash: it was 1.92 V (On your page it is 1.88 V) --> OK

Paul Pauwels <gvdppw@pandora.be>
Eeklo, Belgium

Tue, 27 Nov 01 at 00:03:32

I just measured the voltage on the hotshoe of my new Metz 32 Z-1. It measures 3.46 Volt. I use it with my Fuji F6900 --- Johan K.

Johan K <yngwie38@hotmail.com>
The Netherlands

Mon, 19 Nov 01 at 07:12:23

Thanks for the 550EX+St-E2=E-TTL page. I just bought a G2 on the basis that it would work with my 2 550EX, STE2 & MR14EX.
My initial results were VERY dissapointig. And whats with the f/2 thing!! I haven't read it all yet, but feel sure it will be useful, I thought it was ME!!

Ian Leonard <ian.leonard@totalise.co.uk>
Wiltshire, UK

Sun, 11 Nov 01 at 20:57:50

I just measured the voltage on the hotshoe of my good old Agfatronic 401CBS. It measures 212V!

Martin Stein <marstein@yahoo.com>
El Granada, CA USA

Fri, 09 Nov 01 at 04:57:04

Maybe you want to consider a link to our new website DCVIEWS Digital Camera Views www.dcviews.com
Regards Hans M. Wind AAA-views The Netherlands

Hans M. Wind <hanswind@aaa-views.com>

Sat, 27 Oct 01 at 09:11:10

Here is my attempt to provide a list of all Canon G2 Galleries...

Jan Castermans <jan.castermans@beta9.be>
Hasselt, Belgium

Thu, 25 Oct 01 at 13:42:35

Brian Klug said, "Minolta Auto 200X Flash ... +2.90V DC. Works great on my G1 :)"
But, my Auto 200X Flash --> +6.7 ~ 6.9V DC. Works on my G1, but...

W.S.Ryu <artryu@samsung.co.kr>

Wed, 10 Oct 01 at 08:44:02

MAXUUM 2800AF 1.74V MAXUUM 3500XI 1.88V

Manuel V. Galang <mvgalang2@netzero.net>
Toronto, ON CANADA

Tue, 02 Oct 01 at 05:35:19

The Yahoo! Canon-G2 Users' group is born!

A. Charles <g2@socamail.com>

Mon, 01 Oct 01 at 02:01:58

Did I just see your name in the credits for "Toy Story?" Nice job....

gc <carlislegeorge@yahoo.com>

Wed, 05 Sep 01 at 23:32:38

Corrected link for the message dated Wed, 05 Sep 01 at 01:36:57:

D_Shustoff <d_shustoff@yahoo.com>
Cincinnati, OH USA

Wed, 05 Sep 01 at 01:36:57

Following the article about slave flashes (http://www.botzilla.com/photo/g1strobe.html) Test pictures with digital slave flash (http://www.srelectronics.com/) DSF-1s (camera - Canon A50, dont criticize the quality - it was made in 3 minutes):


1 2 3 4

1. Built-in flash only.

2. Quantarray MS-1 slave flash ($30) - regular slave flash. It prodused a flash during camera's pre-flash and messed up automatic exposition - picture is underexposed.

3. DSF-1s flash ($99). It prodused a flash during camera's second (main) flash. As a result the object was illuminated by full power of both - built-in and slave flash, so the picture is overexposed.

4. MS-1 and DSF-1s slaves working together. The first one syncronized with the pre-flash, the second one - with the main flash. As a result the camera lowered the power of built-in flash and the exposition is correct.

Conclusion: If you want your camera's automatic to work correct, use TWO slave flashes (preferably with the same guide number and directed the same direction), one to syncronize with pre-flash, another to sycnronize with the main flash.

P.S. Assembling quality of DSF-1s flash is TERRIBLE. Somebody can make a good money making small pocket-size slave-flash with two capacitors - to repeat both pre-flash and main flash after the camera. The market is big enough - all pocket-size digital camera users. And - dont forget to send me a sample - as a royalty. :)

D_Shustoff <d_shustoff@yahoo.com>
Cincinnati, OH USA

Fri, 24 Aug 01 at 12:20:55

After erasing all the images from a microdrive and now the menu says "No Image" on PB mode, is it possible to recover the files if I haven't done anything such as taken a new shot?? The Downloader utility missed a few shots and I didn't double-check since there were 511 shots down loaded. Help!!

Rodney <Hages@pacbell.net>
San Francisco, CA USA

Sat, 11 Aug 01 at 16:56:22

This is a great site ! I just discovered it through a camera dealer that I contacted to address my concerns about using my beloved 1970's Metz 45 CT-1 on my new G1. Botzilla's site rates the 45 CT-1 at a whooping 600V !!. You can understand my concern for my (pricey in Canada) G1. I purchased a Wein Safe-Sync HS Voltage regulator for $100.00CAN (ouch!). Being overly cautious perhaps I agonized about actually using it for 48 hours. Contacting Wein Products Inc. my camera dealer was reasured that the voltage regulator would indeed reduce the voltage to the specified 6V required by the G1. They also make regulators to reduce much higher voltage studio strobes. I, however still had trepidations so my very nice camera dealer (Lens & Shutter) offered to test my Metz 45 CT-1 brute with the Wein hot shoe voltage regulator on their G1 demo without any adverse effects. Now all I can say is "what flash problems?" ;-))))

Joe Perez <forjoeperez@hotmail.com>
Vancouver, BC Canada

Wed, 08 Aug 01 at 01:33:59

Kevin - thanks so much for the site! Teffy P.S. How did you know I was reasoned and insightful?

Teffy <NVMGONSHNHHR@spammotel.com>
rustbelt, USA

Mon, 06 Aug 01 at 15:34:43

G1 is my 1st digital camera, so this may be a rookie question: Has anyone else experienced this problem?

Each time I am attempting to upload pics to my PC (W2K, 500 Mhz, 128MB, HP) using the Canon Image Browser 1.4, my Windows Explorer freezes on me - have to do a hard reset and intermittedly it starts working - usually the next day. Have reinstalled W2K and the Canon SW - same results. Any insight is greatly appreciated. Where do I get the latest version of the Canon Image Browser, may be that would help!?

Thanks in advance. Martin

Martin <martinherre@home.com>
Fort Collins, CO USA

Sun, 05 Aug 01 at 19:48:48

Dear Kevin, I would like to post a note in the Canon talk forum discussing the G1 autofocus deficiency quoting directly from your discussion in Botzilla. What I propose to post is as follows:

I am embarrassed to admit that after owning my G1 or more than six months it is only now that I have come to realize the G1s autofocus deficiency. This is no minor problem, unlike the magenta overcast, which is easily fixed with an editing program. There is no easy fix for a camera that has a very weak autofocus system.

Rather than explain the problem in my own words, please read the exert that I have extracted from Kevin Bjorkes discussion on G1 autofocus (botzilla.com): Autofocus The G1 appears to use a contrast-based AF system. It also appears to use the entire frame to measure contrast. In other words, the contrast of pixels along the edges and in the corners are given just as much importance by the AF system as pixels near the center. This uncentered approach has serious consequences for autofocus use on real scenes. While it's fine for landscapes and may even do well for group shots, what about a head-and-shoulders portrait?

Canon's G1 manual mentions "autofocus crosshairs" on page 38, but this is simply wrong they're in the optical finder and clearly have nothing to do with the Autofocus. What's more, they may give you the impression that the AF is concentrating on the area of the crosshairs (like the "target marks" did on the previous Canon design, the Pro 70) and that's simply not true

The Pro 90 also has a "target bracket" area, which might actually do something (it's part of the EVF and LCD, not the optical finder). But both the G1 and Pro 90 manuals claim weakness to "Subjects with extremely low contrast to the surroundings." Even the A20 has AF brackets why does the G1 have this crippled system? Is it some failed prototype of the A20's AiAF ?

If Kevin is correct in his evaluation of the G1 system, and I for one have no reason to doubt him, the G1 has one major flaw that has not been picked up by the various experts who have published extensive reviews of the G1. Had I known this at the time I was ready to buy I would have bought a different camera. (Probably a Nikon 990/995) One might ask why didnt I notice this flaw earlier? I have taken many in-focus pictures with the G1 because the autofocus works adequately for many conditions considering the very generous depth of fields associated with short focal length lenses. In fact the focal length of most digital camera lenses are so short, you could get by with fixed focus for many of your routine shots. It is in those difficult shots where you most need the autofocus as for example macros or views with both foreground and distant objects in the field of view. There are workarounds using contrast targets or switching between digital zoom and manual focus (see discussion on botzilla.com ) but these shouldnt be needed with a camera of this quality.


For most of us who have invested so much in the G1 it is a little too late to do much about it. We will just have to learn how to live with it and hope Canon will fix the problem on a subsequent update. I doubt if it can be fixed without some hardware changes. First Canon has to acknowledge that a problem even exists. For those considering a G1, give this some thought before you buy. There are cameras with better auto focus systems. Don T Plwase let me know if it is OK with you for me to post this message.

Thanks , Don Terrana

Donald B Terrana <dterrana@home.com>
Venice, FL USA

Sat, 28 Jul 01 at 12:24:15

I have two questions:

1.i have a flash of Sigma model EF-430 super EO-N is it compatible to one of the Canon flashes and what functions does the Power Shot G1 Uses with that Flash

2.The Avi movie function in the PS G1 (size & 15fps )improvment is depended on firmware update or it couldnt be improved

Tnx Juda.

Juda Masamy <judam1@hotmail.com>
Rehovot, Israel

Mon, 23 Jul 01 at 03:40:55

The Canon G1 has two autofocus methods i) the entire frame and ii) the center spot. An easier visual check when using the manual focus would be appreciated, but the spot focus eliminates most problems the camera has using contrasty backgrounds when focusing. The 'manual focus' (which I would call focus lock) method can be used to avoid some of the other problems with the auto focus method used by the camera.

Lewis Spilde
Provost, AB Canada

Wed, 11 Jul 01 at 22:02:26

I am having trouble getting my Canon G1 to work fire the Flash 420EX as a slave. I place the flash within reasonable distance (15 inches) making sure the 420 is set to slave (Set to B, then I tried A, but no luck). I set the G1 to Auto mode. I take a picture, but only the G1's flash fires. What am I missing? What are the correct steps to get: 1) Only the slave to flash 2) Both G1's flash and the 420 to flash? Thanks Lisa

Lisa L. <tp@post.com>

Sat, 23 Jun 01 at 01:59:40

Minolta Auto 200X Flash ... +2.90V DC. Works great on my G1 :)

Brian Klug

Tue, 19 Jun 01 at 02:21:17

Hi- Really useful, informed site - thanks. You mention that cheap, home brew circuits exist for converting high trigger voltages to safe ones. I have a Vivitar 283 I'd like to use with an Olympus c2040Z. None of the Wein safe sync configurations would work without several adapter cables which would end up costing more than a new flash. Can you point me to any circuit designs for converting my 230 V trigger voltage to <6V?

Thanks, Michael

Michael Jasper <jasper@mpi.com>

Search DPReview's forums for "optoelectronic isolator"...
Sat, 09 Jun 01 at 19:56:58

I've tested the voltage of the Achiever 632LCD flash. It is ~4.7, and it works well with my Canon G1.

Tanguy Kervahut <tanguyk@altavista.com>
Mont-Royal, Quebec Canada

Sat, 02 Jun 01 at 15:39:33

hello, a i have terrible problem i inherited Sunpak 322 Auto flash, but unfortunately without any manual, and i don't know what is the difference between those two "A" modes I saw you have one, so i would be pleased if you could help me and send me some notes to my mail

thanx a lot

MJ <mj.xx@seznam.cz>
Brno, CZ Czech Republic

The two "A" modes on the Sunpak permit you to choose between two different automated f/stops.
Mon, 28 May 01 at 15:58:19

I have a FAQ request: I've been looking for a good reference on what all the "fancy" G1 shot modes do. It would be nice to have a table something like this:

Mode Av Tv focal_length ...
Night Scene

Paul Waldo <paulwaldo3@yahoo.com>
Arlington, VA USA

In what way would this be different from the table in the manual?
Fri, 04 May 01 at 19:32:59

You've done a great job in analyzing the G1 and Pro90s flash capabilties. They're the most worrying points I've read about the cameras. I plan to get the Pro90 with a 420EX and would like the possibility of off-camera flash operation in the future.

Do you know of any sync speed limitation with the flash? Can fill-in be used at all speeds? I'm hoping that Canon will give you some feedback soon, and that it's something that updated can fix??

Malcolm <malcolm@checkpoint.com>

So far, Canon still appears to deny there IS a problem, so I have my doubts about seeing a fix...
Fri, 27 Apr 01 at 17:59:15

when I look into the lens of my G1 very closely today ,i saw one of the diaphragm blades inside the lens is not flat, it looks like one of the blade is damaged. Do you know is it the original design of cannon or my camera is damaged? pls help Jude

Jude <tungtm@yahoo.com>

Happily, it seems to be part of the camera design.
Thu, 26 Apr 01 at 16:50:19

These colors are very hard to read...

Rick Murtha <rmurtha@yahoo.com>
Rochester, NY USA

Thu, 19 Apr 01 at 10:15:43

Great site! Lots of useful information. I think you should ad a PayPal donation box!

Here is my problem:

For fun, I like to shoot outdoor scenes, animals and landscapes. For work, I post photos of rental propery on one of our sites (www.cvrbo.com) I have enough dough for one expensive camera Which one, G1 or Pro90? Hope you will share your thoughts on this.

Thanks, mikestiteler@home.com

Mike Stiteler <mikestiteler@home.com>
Charleston, sc USA

Wed, 11 Apr 01 at 00:16:27

I have a little update for the strobe page. I measured the Sunpak "Digital Flash" voltage and found it to be between 6.4 and 6.6 volt with fresh Alkaline batteries. These measurements were done using a PC-synch cable and not directly on the hotshoe, using a digital multimeter and manually flashing at full power between measurements. This flash has an automatic slave and meant for use with digital cameras without hotshoe or synch-cord, but it is also usable as a regular automatic flash with GN 53. -Geert

Geert Bosch <bosch2@gnat.com>
Brooklyn, NY USA

Tue, 10 Apr 01 at 16:35:36

Just checked your page and the organization is much better than I recalled. Must be getting old. But still we want to fill the screen (1600x1200). Thanks A

Antonio Piccolboni

Tue, 10 Apr 01 at 16:30:00

I read your chromatic aberration page. Some dispute IR sensitivity is the problem, but I think the evidence is building up. Have you thought of using and IR/UV filter? (it's a band pass filter that cuts both UV and IR) Both B+W and Heliopan offer some of these, but they are a bit expensive to just try them. As apparently all forums about the G1 sinked into desperate newbie noise, I thought it would be better to address the question to you directly.

And BTW I like your shots, but the thumbnail page is now a mess and the resolution is a bit low (maybe your resources are limited as mine, but some feedback is always useful: we want more pixels!). Respectfully, Antonio

Antonio Piccolboni <piccolbo@yahoo.com>
Santa Clara, CA USA

My original thought about CA was that it might be caused by diffraction effects within the cells of the CCD! While almost no one agrees with me on this possibility, I do think it could still be... a possibility. But if so, there should be some visible harmonics patterns, which at least I haven't been able to discern.
Sun, 08 Apr 01 at 05:04:25

I found this freeware extreme useful: imageN - http://www.pixoid.com/

This program is really a gem, it can perform lossless jpeg transformations, basic image editing and can be your photo web server. It reads CIFF or EXIF info, you can use it as a photo organizer, you can use it as an image viewer on CD's you distribute to friends, and the list goes on and on... It is small too (1MB)!!!

Otto Olah <olahotto@hotmail.com>
LA, CA United States

Fri, 06 Apr 01 at 18:19:14

Since the G1 and Pro90IS is basically the same camera it would be nice to know why The Pro90 doesn't require you to be at f/8 to use shutter speeds of 1/500 or higher when the G1 does. /Jonas Sv

Jonas Sv <jonas_saav@swipnet.se>
linkping, Sweden

Thu, 05 Apr 01 at 02:52:40

Update to last post. Buried way down deep in a posting at http://www.smu.edu/~rmonagha/mf/flash.html is a critical bit o' the puzzle that has generally been ignored (or worse, assumed) in most discussion groups: If a sync cable is plugged in to the Vivitar 283, the hot shoe is DISABLED. Of course, when I took my hot shoe voltage measurements sans this essential tidbit, my readings were nada, zip, zilch, etc., etc. Armed with this new insight, I disconnected the sync cord and remeasured. Lo and behold, I get 260V trigger voltage. Color me shocked!

Nick Knight <grfxguy@qwest.net>
Scottsdale, AZ United States

Thu, 05 Apr 01 at 02:19:52

2nd attempt.

As I am eagerly awaiting the delivery of my brand new baby G1, I discovered the various threads discussing the dangers of using older external flash units with this and other modern cameras. Not being overly anxious to fry the G1 electronics within the first few days of what I hope will be a wonderful and fulfilling relationship, I decided to follow the most excellent procedure you describe for testing the trigger voltage of an external flash, in my case, a most vintage Vivitar 283, circa late 1970s/early '80s, and actually "made in Japan."

Using a Radio Shack digital auto-ranging pocket meter, with the correct polarity probes across the flash shoe terminals, fresh alky batteries (tested at a solid 1.5VDC), and the flash fully charged in manual as well as auto modes, I could only measure about 120mV (yes, I DID say mV). If memory serves, mV is millivolts, which is a whole lot less than volts, so this has me more than a little puzzled. I even tried a backup analog volt meter (equally ancient), but it wouldn't register anything at its lowest 5VDC range, so I guess the digital was accurate. It just doesn't correlate at all with the other data mentioned at this site and others.

Any thoughts or ideas on this would be appreciated. I have emailed Vivitar tech support on this as well. It's really a nuisance that they don't change model numbers when they significantly change the product. I guess that's what the old faithful disclaimer, "specifications subject to change without notice," is all about, eh?

As for the "comment on life?" Life is a mobius strip - get over it.

Nick Knight <grfxguy@qwest.net>

Thu, 22 Mar 01 at 02:06:01

I tested the Vivitar 1900 for the Strobe Voltage with 4 new AA batteries and it is 90V - DC on my Sanwa analog multimeter.

Samath Wije <samath@iname.com>

Fri, 09 Mar 01 at 16:03:26

Hey Kevin,

I really have gotton a lot of good info from your site! I like it. I own a Pro 70 and have been watching all the posts on Phils site. I really like the Pro 70 but that Pro 90 sure looks good to me. I will buy one when I return to Texas in April. I like Canon products and if you could share your insights on the Pro 90 I would really appreciate that. I see that you pretty much like the G1. Thanks for the great informative site you have, I sure you could expand it even further and have a very popular site indeed.

Regards, Gavin McKinlay

Gavin McKinlay <gavin_mckinlay@cb.monarch.net>
Canmore, AB Canada

Sat, 10 Feb 01 at 16:56:16


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Kailua, HI USA

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