It's been two weeks since the last entry while work has consumed a lot of that time (accomplishing a lot of fun stuff, I might add), some of the time has also been spent creating a new parallel website & forum to discuss issues of photography in the context of civil liberties. Please visit our new site, PhotoPermit.Org.
It's the 4th of July, time for fireworks and plenty of public parties, fairs, and parades. Just remember, don't take photos at large public events, and whatever you do don't go videotaping in random public places, lest you too might get three months of solitary confinement from agencies that know darned well you've done nothing wrong.
But don't worry, our valiant public servants are there to protect us from those bad, bad evildoers just hush up, slug back a Prozac or three and let them decide what you should see so you don't go handing your children to Osama Bin Laden. After all, they've been there to help us even well before 9-11.
Now you may say, I'm just a big crab. Or a worthless commie Al-Quaeda-loving treasonous wrong-question-asking meanie. The US is still near the best part of the scale in the RSF's Hall of Shame. Still, it's more and more obvious that everyone's camera kit needs a bust card just as surely as they need fresh batteries.
Three rolls TMax 100, Rodinal 1+50 8 mins; three rolls Tri-X @ ISO 250, Rodinal 1+25 11 mins...
Sooner or later I will figure out how to make a photo that looks like over-exposed and over-developed Tri-X in Rodinal. And then hopefully I'll be able to shoot it with something as lightweight as the old Canon G-III (f/11 @ 1/500... you won't find a better camera or lens, and certainly not one within an order of magnitude of the price. And even then, it's grained-out Tri-X fer Pete's sake you HEGR-heads really think you're going to tell the difference between 130lpmm and 135lpmm on Tri-X?). Until then I guess I'm stuck keeping the film cameras around, eh?
My trick in printing this on the computer has been to use Vuescan with auto-levels set to their far extremes, store a 16-bit file, and then do the final contrast-range adjustments in Photoshop before downgrading to 8-bit. I've just had to accept that I can't get my head around Vuewscan's whitepoint/blackpoint adjustments enough to get predictable quick results. I'd rather burn the disk space for 18MB-per-frame scans and then do the work with a tool I feel I can control.